Observations of Seasonal Change

I know when I lived in Los Angeles I complained that the steady temperature gave no indication of the seasons changing. Although it is super-dooper hot here I have begun to notice the changes in the climate. When I arrived it was nice, warm but nice. The Togolese complained that it was cold and would wear their hats and coats and even gloves. Then it began getting hotter and it just continued to get hotter and hotter. They were happy and shed the coats and long sleeves. Then it became incredibly hot. Please note that I was sick twice with a respiratory infection (including fever) during this phase. How my friend could tell I had a fever when I was just constantly burning hot and dripping sweat/water, literally. You don’t even smell of B.O. because your body is just sweating so much. I have never experienced heat like this and Missouri heat will never compare. I think only Hell might, and I emphasize might, be hotter. Another thing that I noticed was that the geckos and the lizards that are everywhere started to thin out and then all together disappeared. I was sad as I really loved these little ones running around teasing Roxy and just overall scurrying about the yard, walls, streets, and school. I really hoped that they would come back soon as the frequent sightings of mice and huge cockroaches are not as fun as geckos and lizards.
I have realized that it is cooling a little bit, as the Togolese would say “small small”. I think that it’s just super hot right now. I have begun to smell my B.O. again and I don’t need the fan ALL night anymore. The Togolese have brought out long sleeve shirts and the taxi moto men have been wearing hats and coats lately.
It would have been fun to have a thermometer to measure the temperature outside each day and actually report for you (cause I’m that nerdy) but alas I’ve just invented my own way of determining how hot it is. Not as scientific I know, but funnier for sure.

So as you all have been experiencing Fall and may be even a dusting of snow, please enjoy it and take it in for me. I miss the leaves changing and snow just might make me cry. May be next year I will just be normal and spend Christmas at home. It has been so good for me to be here. I think that this is just what I’ve been waiting for all my life. Just so you know I’m contemplating a second year, but I’m not sure. I will for sure be home in July for a few weeks regardless. I look forward to hugging you and going through a little culture shock.

BIG UPDATE! I saw 1 baby green headed lizard yesterday outside the gate at my house, and then 2 push up lizards today. I was so happy. Then one of my students saw a fat gecko crawling on the wall in my classroom today and we all looked at him. This evening as I was washing dishes I saw a little gecko crawl across the outside of the screen of the kitchen window (please note that my windows don’t really have glass rather they are holes cut in the walls and screen mesh hung over the bars). These sightings make me happy that my little creatures are back and that the heat might actually be subsiding.

I would also like to take a moment and tell you that I am so excited that Mango season is here! It’s sad that avocado season is over but all of you know how much I love mangos and oh it is so heavenly! There are 2 kinds of mangos here; a small local orange mango, and the large mango we all are familiar with and love! I literally can buy the small mangos for .05 cents each and the large mangos for .25 cents each. I have been eating one or 2 every day and have joked that I might turn orange like the mangos but oh it’s so great. =-)

The Baby Dedication

My friend invited me to tag along to his friend’s house for a baby dedication. I thought that since I’ve been to a wedding and graduation that this would be another good experience, so I went.
The little boy is 3 years old and his name is Believe. This is one of the most verbal little boys I’ve ever met, not to mention that he is a spiffy dancer too. I had such a nice time with everyone and his mom is a very boisterous welcoming woman who also speaks a fair amount of English. She boldly asked things about my life that made me feel a little uneasy for the first time meeting all these people but it was fun and I just smiled through the whole experience.

Apparently, the day before they had gone to the church for the actual dedication and this was the reception party at the house where they gave out huge amounts of food, played music, and there was some dancing starting when we left.

It all began with a lot of talking and sitting around. Now Togolese literally sit separately (men and women) on opposite ends of wherever they gather. Since my friend is a man and I am the yo-vo (white girl) I get to sit with him and no one minds. So, I sat with the men and listened to them talk. It was funny because I picked up on some of their conversation but my friend filled me in on the rest. All the men were talking about getting white girls and laughing about it the way that teenage boys talk in the locker room about how they could get the prettiest girls in the school. They laughed about all you need to learn to say is “I love you baby”. I laughed especially hard when one guy left and returned with what looked like his Togolese girlfriend. They didn’t speak about getting a white girl after that.

The celebration began with a round of wine or whiskey, each person’s choice. I opted for the wine and it was rather strong. I smelled the whiskey and well just take my word that it would knock anything over. Then the mother and her friend brought out the first platter of food. It’s another typical thing that the men’s side of the gathering is served first. There is no buffet style here. It was a really nice salad, western style. I actually ate leaf lettuce and a piece of pickle too. I was so excited. I hadn’t had either since I left America. Then there was Togolese style potato salad and it was yummy. I was feeling rather full when they brought around the beer. I took one but I wished for water. Before I opened the beer my wish was granted and it wasn’t even the plastic bag of water, it was real bottled water. I was so happy. Later they brought out one of the paste-like white foods that is very common here with a sauce and chunks of beef. They were disappointed that I didn’t take more meat but I honestly was so full (or satisfied as they say here) that I joked with the father that I had a food baby. This is where I can seriously get myself in trouble because of the communication barrier is ever present. He then turned to his wife with this happy smile on his face and was honestly going to tell her that I was pregnant with my friend’s baby. Oh Lord help me…I am not so funny when it backfires on he me like that. I corrected him before the rumors began and he laughed after I slowly explained that I was very satisfied and I was joking that I ate so much it made my belly stick out like a baby. I WAS NOT pregnant. Sheesh. I need to be more careful.

We listened to music more and Believe danced with his mom and other relatives. We decided that it was time for us to go and so half the party came out to say good bye to us (or the white lady) and to take pictures with me like we were best friends. I laughed and smiled really big.

So this wasn’t the most eventful outing but it was special and I had a good time. As we took moto taxis home I was thinking that the people at the American Embassy are really nice and it’s good to see them but I felt kinda bad for them as they don’t live within the Togolese community at all. They live like the Wizard of Oz came and swept up most of their life in America and planted it here. I enjoy so much being within the people and participating in the community here. I love my life here, overall.

Melrose Place…Lome Style

The last three weeks or so I have been living my own reality show. I know it sounds crazy but please remember I’m living in a capital city with European and American people, so I promise it’s a drama! The differences are a little less Hollywood. We don’t have the latest clothes, or cause drama for money, fame, or power, but the basic drama of hurting other people out of selfishness is the core and that is the same. I’ll spare you some of the yuck but here are the tragic points and just for kicks the craziness of the people I interact with.
Julie, my former roommate, began getting calls from a girl’s boyfriend (we teach with this girl). This man would not relent so Julie decides to go out with him, just once (BAD MOVE!). They begin sleeping together. Please note the man lives at the other girl’s house and they are spending entire weekends at hotels and whatnot here in Lome. She then thinks she is pregnant and might have some disease. Mind you I’ve explained that this is not a good idea to her several times. Her attitude went from “Oh it’s just for fun and he doesn’t mean anything to me” to “I love him and we think we could have a baby together”. INSANE!!!!
So the man is clearly NOT welcome in my house! After about a week and a half he tells Julie that he will leave the girlfriend (who we work with) of like almost 2 years, if Julie will be committed to him. Julie agrees and the next thing I know she is attempting to pick fights with me to justify moving out. She didn’t like that I never told her she had to move out and she then began telling me that she couldn’t be friends with me because I was judgmental. She felt that since I explained again and again that this was a selfish thing to do and it’s just flat out wrong! Sheesh!
Meanwhile, the girl (who was losing her boyfriend) begins to suspect he is sleeping around after he spent two weekends away from home and a few weeknights, oh and then the text he sent her instead of Julie about a rendezvous. She’s quick. Then someone told the girl’s friend that they saw Julie and the man together at a bar. These people are crazy. Julie is gone constantly with this guy and what do the girl and her friends (also teachers at the school) do? They come to my house and harass me and try to push open my gate door to inspect my house. They are retarded. Then after they weren’t welcomed in they sit and ring my doorbell for 10 minutes straight. This was Julie’s other reason for moving out; the girls were a threat to me. I think she lost who she was when she began seeing this guy. Julie actually sat and looked me in the face several times and told me that there was no right and wrong in life and that this was true love. WOW! May be we only teach right and wrong in America?

I have been alone for over a week now. She has moved her things out and I have gotten the pity of my director, the tatas, and even the teachers who tried to break into my house. Yesterday one of the tatas told me that if Julie was an African they would tie her hands and just beat her. I told her that wasn’t probably the best thing, but yes, Julie was wrong. The tata told me that I was a good person and I should forget her, she wasn’t my friend. Then she reassured me that all the tatas liked me. I smiled, but my heart hurts a little to have lost my best friend here. I know that Julie has hurt herself and other people more than me, but I still feel sad in the evenings when I’m alone instead of cooking, talking, and laughing with Julie. I know it will get easier as the days pass. I just haven’t been alone AT ALL since I arrived here in August and I was getting used to it. Now I have to get used to just being with Roxy. I’m glad that I have Roxy!

Care Packages

Hi Everyone.
I just wanted to share that if there is something that you would like to send me, it just got a whole lot easier! I have a student whose father works at the Embassy and I can have things mailed through the Embassy. You just follow these easy steps and the best part is the shipping cost is all within the U.S. for you.
Please though it would be great if you check with me first before you send anything as there are a lot of things that I've found that I can get at Grande Marchette. It's amazing the things I can get and the things I can't get here, so it's just safer to check with me. In general I can't get construction paper and I never thought I'd say that I miss American candy/chocolate, but I now see it as a special treat. Oh and I haven't found green tea yet (and you all know how I love my green tea). It seems that shops only sell Lipton. Please don't send me anything that says Lipton on it.

Step 1:
Address the box to

Scott McFadden
2300 Lome Place
Dulles, Virginia 20189

Step 2:
The return address should read my name and then your address. This ensures that it gets to me.

Step 3:
Do not pack any liquids or parishables. It's going through the mail but also the government. I've been told that it takes 2 weeks for the package to arrive here so that it pretty good I think.

Please don't feel like I'm begging, it's just really cool that packages are possible now. It's just something I wanted to throw out there as some of you had said that you wanted to send me something but I thought it was too expensive. Now it's not too bad.

Three Months Later

This is my three month assessment of my life in random thoughts. I know that I should edit this for some of you worry warts, but what the hay, life is beautiful and I know that when I go back to America I might be shocked too. For now it’s fairly normal so I’m going with it.

I have had the blessing and curse of losing 20 pounds. This is great as I needed to, but now my clothes don’t fit…even the ones that were too tight to wear when I got here. So I morn wearing oversized britches each day, aside from the days I wear my Togolese outfits that I have had made. Oh yes, everyone loves these days. The Tatas (aides/aunties) at school all go crazy with teasing, and dancing in a loving way. I have one picture below. They tell me I am African girl now.

I was sitting on the back of my moto today going to the bank at rush hour and as the man whizzed in the opposite lane and ground to a stop for the light I was texting. I briefly thought, “May be this isn’t such a good idea, so I should be fast fast.”

My ability to learn French is proving to be less than ideal. After teaching in English all day and everyone wanting to practice English with me, it is near impossible to learn French. I have discontinued my French lessons as I’m so disgusted.
I do need to add that Togolese English is not the same English that we speak in America. They say things like ‘fast fast’, ‘it is finished’, ‘I am coming’, ‘it is spoiled’, ‘plenty’ and ‘what is your problem’. Unfortunately, I have begun to pick up the lingo. So I am officially losing all hope of ever speaking correct English again in my life. I have taught teenagers in L.A. for 3 years and now I’m speaking Togolese English. Oh well, I’m sure you will all get a kick out of making fun of me when I move back.

I have been eating at Togolese’s houses and street food and haven’t had running stomach, so I think I’m doing pretty good. I don’t even think about it that much anymore, I just eat. Majority of the food here is a mash (think solidified mash potatoes) in a ball. You dig your pointer and middle finger into the mash and roll a ball with your thumb, be careful as it’s super hot and sticky! Then you dip it in the sauce and eat. Normally there is some kind of dried fish you pick apart or chicken part that is more bones, skin, and cartilage than meat. I was offered chicken feet then other night but just wasn’t ready for that yet. May be I need another few months for that one and then fish eyes too????
When you eat like this you wash your hand at the table and it’s a communal thing. I love it. Oh and I’ve learned that you do not eat with your left hand. It’s only ok to spit the bones or bones into your left hand and hide it under the table.

I still wash my clothes by hand in the wash basin out in the yard. I still cook most all the meals. I sweep a little more as the dusty season has begun, also known as Hermittan.

Roxy is beautiful and I love her so much. I have been told, by my vet, that I need to stop feeding her dinner as this will make sure she is alert all night. So she only gets breakfast and lunch beginning today. I feel kinda mean but this is how you train a guard dog I guess and she does need to be part guard dog to protect me during the night. She is great though!

I have sad news. My beloved roommate Julie has decided that she will move out of the house to live with her new found boyfriend who left another teacher in our school. It’s an awkward situation but I think it will all settle with time. I have been enjoying the peace and some time alone. I realized that I haven’t really had alone time since arriving here in Lome three months ago. It’s fun to write and read and play with Roxy and just be quite and still.
I’ll be honest, I was a little freaked out sleeping alone in the house the first few nights but now I’m good. I lock the gate up tight and all the doors are battened down. Not to mention Roxy is out in the yard. My friend who works for the school and lives up the street has told me that if I hear anything I can call him and he will come and check it out, no matter what time. I think that people pretty much know me on the street so I should be good. It’s my home and so I’ll be at peace, but aware at the same time.

It looks like I will travel during Christmas break with a family of one of my students. This should be very fun and I’m looking forward to it. I haven’t left Lome since I arrived and so seeing another country will be great!

Thanksgiving!

Happy Turkey Day! I hope that you celebrated with loved ones, crisp fall weather, and lots of turkey, cranberries, sweet potatoes, green bean casserole, and of course pumpkin pie! This year I was a little put out that I had to work the day of Thanksgiving, but thank goodness the Muslim community also has their thanksgiving holiday the day after, so the Togolese government declared it a national holiday. I love 3 day weekends!
The night before Thanksgiving, after spending a week of talking about Thanksgiving at school and tracing my hand a million times to make turkeys and discussing what we’re thankful for with the kids, I was invited to the Ambassador’s home for an American feast. It was fun and I’m so glad that I had this opportunity! I wore my new pretty sundress and mingled and shared turkey and many other great treats. I’m sorry to report that there was no green bean casserole. I think that this summer I will bring back the fixins and I will bring it if I’m invited next year. Please, don’t get me wrong it was the most elegant Thanksgiving that I have partaken in. I ate off of plates that had the U.S. seal on them. I used real silver silverware. There were people walking around ready to give me cranberries and other treats and then collect my plate when I was finished. Then there was more talking. The house and compound was really nice as well. I didn’t realize until I went to the bathroom that it had been months (since before I arrived) that I’d seen myself in the mirror. I got a good look at the Ambassador’s house and it made me feel like a kid discovering my reflection in the hall outside of the bathroom. I’m glad no one caught me as they might have thought I was strange for sure.

From what I could see the Muslim community had a nice thanksgiving too. All of my students and colleagues who are Muslim told about the “sheeps” their family had bought and the oldest male in the family would slaughter them. Personally, I spent their lovely holiday laying on a beach lounger 20 yards from the waves, under a canopy fast asleep for several hours. It was amazing. I thought of you all a few times as I rolled over and gazed out into the Atlantic and knew you were on the other side coping with Black Friday. What can I say, life is rough when it is almost always 100 degrees every day.

Critter Alert!

Julie went in the kitchen this evening to grab a knife for me, but instead calls me in telling me to “Come look”. We have a host of geckos, lizards, and whatnot in the kitchen so I go with the idea that it was one of our friends. Oh no! She points out this little mouse behind all of our clean dishes in our make-shift rack! She acts like its so cute! I tell her we have to catch it and get rid of it. She laughs and then laughs at me as I proceed to try and catch this mouse. So clearly I didn’t catch it. We return to the living room and continue our evening in front of the fan. About 20 minutes later the crazy mouse is joining us in the living room! This time I get a better container and proceed to chase the mouse around the living room and Julie’s room. At one point it even ran across my foot and I screamed. Julie found this very very funny. I think she enjoys me only for entertainment factors as life is always exciting with me around.

I even let Roxy in the house at one point to help hunt the mouse. Roxy will hunt the geckos and spiders each night, but did she even help with the mouse, NO! She wanted to play with me instead. I accidently stepped on her paw and she pulled the sit and stare at me while lifting up the paw. She is such a drama queen. She really isn’t hurt but she wants all the attention and knows that we will talk to her and pet her extra when she does this. I have to admit that it’s cute but extremely clever too. Eventually, I did catch the mouse.

After inspection of the mouse in the container, Julie suggested that we make it a classroom pet and we could show our classes. I told her the Director would just love that! Not to mention we would get blamed for having a dirty house (which we rent from the Director). So Julie has named the mouse Stuart and Stuart is in a Tupperware container on a shelf in the living room. I hope that I can release the mouse far from the house tomorrow (yes, this is my personal catch and release/relocation program in Africa. I’m not sure the Togolese will like that so let’s not tell them, ok).

I’m sure that tomorrow will bring the last adventure with Stuart, well I hope so.

Part 2
Stuart died in the night. Since Julie wanted to save him to show our students we just put the Tupperware container on the shelf in the living room. I had an idea that he might not have enough oxygen to make it through the night but I was not so keen on the idea of keeping him and so I just let it slide.
Julie accused me of murder this morning. Then today at lunch she realized that even though I tried to put oxygen in the container before I went to bed I knew that he wouldn’t make it through the night. She told me she was too tired to realize this last night and she knew that I knew all this information and just let it slide. We laughed about it and I took Stuart out for his burial in the yard this afternoon.

I should add that this morning Julie asked me if I’d been in the kitchen yet. I am beginning to dread this question. She told me that it was a gecko this time. It was really a lizard stuck in the kitchen sink. I think he fell off a rafter and couldn’t get out. Julie and I discussed the differences between geckos and lizards. Then I proceeded to catch him. He got away.

He returned this afternoon in the screen on the kitchen window and then again got away. It turns out he is a very wiggly little fellow. But then he hid under the refrigerator. Later he was making a break for the front door and Roxy perked up and almost had him for dessert. I locked her up and freed the wiggly lizard. At least one out of two was released. I would say my relocation program is doing ok right now. I hope it’s awhile until I have to use my critter skills again.

Trauma

I have a girl in my class who is clearly special to me. I mean this in that our personalities are compatible more than the other children. I think it is because she can be bossy, stubborn, she doesn’t communicate her feelings well, and in general is used to doing what she wants when she wants. Hmmm…does this sound like anyone you know? I love her so much and she seems to be doing well in my class this year. The Director is completely impressed as this child hated school last year and seems to love me and coming each day. Her mother has reported that this little girl loves me so much and listens to me that they use my name at home to make her do things by saying “Would Nina like that?”. I laugh but she is adorable and very special to me. At times she is behind on things like fine-motor skills and language development, while other times she seems to absorb information and retain it better than other children. I think she is intuitive and her potential is great if she is not overlooked.

I laugh at the things that she tells me and other children, but by far she makes me feel not so far away from America and my tough kids when she tells me things like “You crazy!” or when I am teaching and she leans forward in her desk with this look of shock and amazement and says “What did you say!?” like I’ve just shared the key to all learning with the class. She makes me smile and laugh so much. Oh and she went through a phase of telling me each day that “Nina, we go to beach at 7 o’clock on Friday, OK?”. It is dark here at 5:30 and there is no way her parents or I am going to the beach after dark, but she was trying to be a big girl and it was adorable. The other children in class sometimes look at her and wonder if she will get in trouble for her scandalous comments (for Kindergarten that is) but then laugh too. Oh and each day during recess she has to play for 5 or 10 minutes and then check in with me and get a hug. Then she will repeat this, unless she is tired or having a hard day then I have to hold her in the sweltering African heat. She is something else.

Yesterday, my little friend was playing at recess and I was parked on a bench in the shade, as always, when she comes running/stumbling over. The look of horror on her face I knew that we were in for drama and lots of hugs. So I scooped her up and she finally caught her breath after many crocodile tears poured from her big brown eyes. I asked her where it hurt and with my little friend you have to ask slowly a few times before she actually starts to make sense. So I patiently wait and go through the process and I get that someone bit her and it was on her collar bone. I check and there is no mark whatsoever. So I rock her some more and she is good. Then the director comes over and wants to know what is wrong and take my little friend to have her point out who bit her. Well, the Director comes back and she said “I don’t understand she said that it was someone in your class but I don’t know who.”. This is funny because I don’t have any bitters, I have a licker, a pusher, a hitter, and a name caller…fresh out of bitters. So I take my little friend’s hand and she takes me to show me. Well, my whole class was gathered around this abnormally large, neon green grasshopper that was hanging out on the wall of the school. May be they are just extra big here in Africa as no one thought anything was weird about it, except me. My children were just fixated with it as they LOVE animals as we have been studying animals and looking at anything moves. My little friend points directly at the grasshopper, not at my students! I laugh to myself and pick her up and talk to her about the grasshopper, which she is now calling a ladybug. She communicated to me that it jumped on her shirt and I can just picture how it scared the beejeebers out of her! The poor thing! Honestly, she can’t really formulate sentences very well, so it’s more of patchwork language than anything with her, but I’m becoming really good at hearing her. I explain to her that it didn’t bite her and yes, that is scary and we had talked about being scared that morning. I have been triaging over this grasshopper for 2 days now. She might be scarred for life.

Today there was a very very small grasshopper on the wall in my classroom and she was very scared to say the least. She nearly lost it when it flew under a desk and was convinced it was in her hair. I hope this doesn’t mean she will hate bugs the rest of her life.

Being Sick In W. Africa = No Fun!

I am sorry for not posting lately. I have been battling with my first Africa cold. I had the toe incident and as my toe healed I grew more sick. It’s like a sinus infection that ebbs and flows. This creates an “I’m better” thought and then the next day it rises up only to knock me flat again. I have looked like I’ve been hit by a train for almost a week now, but I’m not the only one. I know many people with it too. The local people swear it’s the change in weather. I’m not sure a 5-10 degree jump in the weather can create sickness like cold weather does in the states, but anything is possible I guess. I would like to mention that I rest and sleep a lot. There is nothing like laying in bed dripping sweat literally from all the pours in your body, while you’re sick knowing that you don’t have a fever and even the healthy people are this miserable. So I rest, take vitamin C, drink lots and lots of water, and have even been using my coveted alka-selzer plus cold medicine from America. Oh I sponge off with clean water to help me sleep too as my fan is still not fixed and I haven’t been well enough about nagging the guy who said he would fix it. I really need to have that done!
I hope that I’m feeling better soon as my roommate might just tie me up (along with one of my friends) and haul me to the doctor. I really don’t think I like this option as everyone I know who is sick has waited hours at the doctor or hospital. They were then given injections in their bottoms and sent home. All of them are still sick. I DO NOT want injections where the sun don’t shine, thank you very much.

But life continues to move along even though I’m sick. I witnessed a Voodoo parade last weekend, right down my street. These people were dressed in full costume and dancing to the drums other men carried. It was creepy and weird and I hope that it doesn’t happen again.
There was a dead chicken in the road earlier last week and my roommate swears that it was a voodoo sacrifice of some sort. I hope that this does not continue.

On another front, Roxy took her second moto ride to the vet. She is going to start her puppy shots (almost a month late…oops!) next Wednesday. I thought we would start when I actually took her to the vet but apparently he doesn’t make vaccination appointments on the phone and wants to look at her. Or I live in a society where there is a lot of red tape and nothing should be expected to be finished or done when you go the first time. Oh and I am seeing the government veterinarian. Oh the cycle.
The look on the Togolese children’s faces as I walked down the road to catch a moto was priceless. I had put Roxy in my backpack and let her head hangout (see picture below). I was quite a sight. Then the moto drivers didn’t even notice when I was speaking to them about where I was going and how much. It was funny. Just think, I get to do it all again next Wednesday too.
I have also posted a new picture of Roxy and I. She is huge now and grows every night, I swear! She’s great and I love her but trouble and stubborn are her middle names! I guess dogs do take after their masters. =-)

Part 2
I’m finally well after 2 and a half weeks of having a respiratory infection. Not so much fun, but today I got to smell for the first time! It’s too bad that it was such a hot day and all I really smelt was body odor of my students and the taxi moto drivers. All the same I’m happy to smell again!

technical difficulties

OK I typed a few stories but blogger isn't letting me paste onto it...sorry I have to figure it out another day. Here are a few pictures of Roxy to show you how she is growing.

Do you see how much my baby is growing!??? I think sometimes she grows during the night.

Roxy after her second moto ride. What a big girl!

Injury Alert

5 (or more) days ago I noticed that my right big toe was a little sore on the inner side but I didn’t’ think much of it. I went about my fun at the beach with friends and figured I would investigate later. That evening I discovered that I should trim a hang nail and the toenail itself and thought that was it. Nope. My toe continued to swell and turn various shades of pink, red, dark blue, and purple as the pain increased and I grew very sensitive to walking (my major mode of transportation here). I would like to say that for the last 5 days I have cleaned my toe with alcohol and used Neosporin. I even tried soaking in hot/warm water too. I’ve done a really good job keeping it clean considering the dust and sand everywhere here, but it has not stopped weeping or swelling. I was almost in tears the past 2 nights and I would like to state for the record this has put a damper on the fun I was planning for this vacation.
Julie began telling me 2 nights ago that we should call the doctor, but I was reluctant. I work closely with the doctor’s wife and I know him too, but I wasn’t ready to call a doctor over my toe just yet. I promised her that in another day if it wasn’t improving I would call him. Yesterday, my toe was not good and I walked entirely too much on it. It seemed to pound with each step and I dreaded having to walk home that evening. I was talking with my Togolese friend and shared with him about my toe for the second time this week. He told me that I should may be see a doctor and get an anti-biotic or they would need to cut open my toe. I tried to tell him that I didn’t like anti-biotics because they wipe out your immune system and since all my kids are sick and many adults are sick too I would be worried I catch some horrible strand of African stomach something or virus that knocks me out completely. This was al lost in communication and so he just encouraged me again to call the doctor. I told him one more night and then if it isn’t better tomorrow I will. His second offer was traditional medicine. I wasn’t so sure about that but he said that he would bring the product to my house that evening. Of course he shows up when I’m almost in tears and the power was out and my fan had broken. It wasn’t a great moment to say the least. My roommate and I were trying to figure out if I was just overheating or if I had a fever because of this infection in my toe. So he joined in with great concern. He inspected my toe by flashlight and then began applying the “traditional product” to my toe. It seemed to glow like something out of Little Shoppe of Horrors and it smelled like the strongest mentholadom that has ever been made. Vick has nothing on this stuff my friends. When he was finished he looked at me very seriously and told me that I needed to put if on every night and every morning. He told me he was very sorry for me and that he would check on me the next day. After he left I promised Julie I would call the doctor in the morning.

Dr. Erik came to the house at 12:30pm and gave me 2 prescriptions; an anti-biotic and an anti-inflammatory. He told me it would look a lot better by Sunday and that he would call me the next day to check on me. About an hour later my friend stopped by and wanted to know what the doctor said and how I was. He also inspected my toe today. I was relieved that he didn’t say anything else about the “traditional product”.

When Julie and I went to the pharmacy a man with the money symbol around his neck waited on us. Then I paid the cashier and read the ingredients to make sure I wasn’t allergic to any either of the medications. I was good to go and so we left. It’s amazing to me the amount of English that was used on the signs and instructions in the pharmacy, but I was thankful! I even saw a huge H1N1 poster and how to prevent the flu. I haven’t even heard about the flu since I left America at the end of August. I can only imagine what it is like there now.

I would like to end by saying that when you have something wrong it is easier to hide it and people don’t treat you like you’re handicapped before you see a doctor. It is after you have seen the doctor that people react in large ways. I will tell you that Julie hasn’t let me cook or even get out of the living room chair all day. My friend wouldn’t let me walk him to the door. Everyone just wants me to sit around and be waited on while I keep my foot propped up. This is great but there is only so much sitting that a girl can do (and I haven’t exactly been sitting around all week). I love that I have a great support system here and I should listen to them more. I foresee a speedy recovery with all the resting and medication over the next few days.

P.S. When you take anti-biotic they may cause you to be more susceptible to illness, especially when working with children who have snot pouring from their noses all day. I seem to have contracted something, but I hope that the vitamin C I lugged from America will help. But the good news is my toe is great and I am walking just fine again.

Bank Hell

Today I spent 3½ hours in bank hell, but I got what I wanted by golly! I opened my first African bank account. So now I have a place to put my pennies.

I would like to take a moment and let you reflect on your last trip to the DMV or the last time you waited for a really long time and experienced a lot of frustration and may be someone being difficult with you just because they needed to be better than someone else. This is my all to common experience when I go places like the bank here. I don’t even go to pay my bills I have a Togolese go for me to avoid that hassles. Honestly.

While I was at the bank I need to just run through the highlights as I would prefer to forget this day.
The woman was definitely more into talking to the woman next to her, answering the phone, and talking to people passing her cube than speaking to me.
She told me there were several types of accounts but didn’t even explain one type to me. Even when I went back in the conversation and asked specifically.
She told me to fill out the paper and then write it on the back…Yes I had to have a 5 minute discussion with her about how I didn’t understand what “IT” was and please stop saying ‘write it’ and may be say this another way so I could understand. She just referred me to the bank manager. He told me I should have brought a translator with me. I explained I did but she had to leave and the woman wasn’t helping us when my translator was there with me. He felt bad so he sat and translated the form for me and then he had me print “I approve” at the bottom of the form.
They charge you $3 a month to have an account. Later they told me they will charge me another $36 a year and then as I was almost done and walking to make my deposit they told me I had to pay a fee to make a cash deposit! I lost it and only deposited my check. Then they wouldn’t let me out of they bank…literally I was locked inside. The bank manager said he would pay the fee today but I had to deposit my money. I told him it was ok. I deposited the check and I would keep the money.
I almost got hit by a car in the secret back parking lot that they made me walk out, rather than the front door.

Oh and I should mention that the moto driver tried to charge me double for the ride home. Then his friend came over to tell me that I was crazy and 400 cfa was standard. I told him I travel this route almost every day and it’s 200 cfa and he knows it. He was lying to me. I smiled and gave him the funny teacher look and reminded him that yes I was white but not stupid. I laughed, he laughed, the moto guy laughed and then took me home for 200 cfa. But we had to drive by all of his friends and they cheered for him that he had a yovo on the bike and yelled YOVO at me…Oh this is my funny life!

Out of Hand Kindness

The first day of vacation started out fairly normal. I got up early with the dog and then began making dog food. I usually do this on the weekend but put it off as we made an impromptu beach trip over the weekend. So I was cooking in the kitchen and I heard Julie laughing hysterically in her room. I went to see what was so funny at 6:30am when she is normally asleep. She said that one of the guys that we were out with last night sent her a message last night and said that he has been trying for 2 weeks to show her that he likes her but after hanging out last night he realized that Julie and I are more than friends and he understands now.
Yes, there were 5 of us who were hanging out and we are all friends and have been friends since arrival. Yes, Julie and I have noticed that this guy has been more interested in being around if Julie is present. Yes, she has not responded or reciprocated his interest and just acted normal as she is a kind hearted and non-confrontational person. Yes, Julie and I are roommates and very good friends, even more like sisters at times. We eat all our meals together each day. We argue about who has done the dishes more or bought more vegetables. We hang out together all the time and enjoy being around each other. No, we are not lesbians.
Julie finds this extremely funny and we begin to reflect on what makes him think this way. We had spoken last night after the dinner how this guy had changed toward the end and he wasn’t so happy. Both of us thought that we had offended him and I even spoke to him at the end to try to make things ok. Apparently Julie and I were off as he wasn’t made at us. He just thought he realized we were gay, which we are not. While we reflect we think about how we sit next to each other, there were times when we spoke together more quietly about observations or inside jokes, we laughed at each other, we shared ice cream, she paid for our dinners as we take turns paying when we go out. These are all things that you do with your very close friends and she is like my sister so it is normal for us. Oh dear. She laughs and I laugh too but it’s weird he thinks this about us. We are clearly not gay nor could we be gay, because we like boys too much and we have both had enough boy drama since we arrived that it is even funnier to us.
This is going to be the running joke with us at home for a while. I even joked we need to begin to call each other “girlfriend” when we are around this guy and may be even hold hands. May be that might be cruel to make fun of him but honestly it’s just beyond me how he could think and say something like this about us.
Julie made sure that she met with him today to work out this inaccurate observation. Apparently this guy didn’t want to come to our house as I scare him or he didn’t want to face both of us at the same time. I don’t know for sure, but I was sad that he wouldn’t eat dinner at our house and he wouldn’t even ring the doorbell and come in. He apparently wants to have a special talk with each one of us. I think after that it will be ok…on the condition we can laugh about this the rest of the year.
Oh an update...He believed we were lesbians because we sat next to each other at the resturant and I sat inbetween him and my roommate. Since he liked my roommate he felt I was marking her as mine and not his. Then after I poured a glass of water for him and then myself I shared some of my water with her. He also said there were times that we were talking just to each other quietly and then laughing and he feels that we make fun of all men. OK.

But all is good now and life is going on. I'm not married or dating my roommate. It's amazing the problems that people make for each other because they want something.

The Way Graduation Should Be

My Togolese friend told me that one of his friends was graduating from hair dressing school and told me that I should go with him. This is one of my good friends (if I can say that after living 7 weeks) so I agree that it would be a fun opportunity. I meet my friend and we ride on his moto to the school. There were 12 girls graduating and so there were 12 sections. We were escorted to the appropriate section and I was so thankful that we sat in the shade. Each section was overseen by the girl’s family and so her brother greeted us and made sure that our chairs were wiped off. This is a very common thing, matter of fact people buy small packs of Kleenex for two reasons. The first is to wipe off the seat before you sit down and the second to dab the sweat off their face. Who would have thought this was so imperative? It’s so common that outside places like church, the Justice of the Peace, and this school that was holding the graduation that there are venders who sell the Kleenex packets and gum. Go figure, that gum is also something that you have for these special occasions. Welcome to another country Nina.

True to special occasion form, there is a Master of Ceremony, huge booming speakers cranked up, dancers, photographers, a few cameramen accompanied by the spotlight men, and money given to people. The ceremony began with the girls dressed in matching outfits, dancing there way to their seats in the center of the courtyard. I would like to add that all the teachers were also dressed in matching outfits as they sat facing the students and the audience. Then the director danced in and took her seat. There were some words said and then the girls stood in 2s and introduced themselves then loud music was played and people came to put money into the basket that they held. This money was given to the director as a thank you gift for the girl’s education. As the offering was taken by each girl from her friends and family I watched as people danced and celebrated this time of completion for each girl.

It’s hard for me to think that they can’t just get a job now but they have to work as an apprentice for 3 years WITHOUT PAY! Then they will be able to work for pay. It’s so hard to find jobs for the Togolese people, yet it seems that everyone works. It’s because they have established this cycle of pay for school and then work for free for years and may be if you meet and know the right people you will get a job. Otherwise you will be unemployed and have to start another internship for another 3 years and hope that you can get a job afterward. To top it off educated people who graduated with a Master’s degree at from the University who get a job are only making about $300 a month.

There was a dance troupe that entertained us while the girls changed. This was traditional African dance and then some original choreographing. I’ll go out on a limb but the dance that made fun of Muslims the way that Americans would dress up like “blackie” with shoe polish on their faces was appalling to me. Then there was the song that they danced to that talked about being happy. One line talked about being so happy that they peed. Yes, one of the four men dancing opened his fly in the middle of the dance and urinated on the ground. I almost fell out of my chair. I truly was speechless. I still feel a little weird just talking about it. This just proves that boundaries are different between cultures.
The girls returned and showcased their hair styles and outfits like professional models. Well, professional models with this crazy auntie or teacher running around guiding them and waiving her scarf around. It was entertaining and I thought of her as a happy Tinkerbelle type of lady who was just having fun.
It was during this time that the families, who were in charge of each section, passed out water and then snacks for the guests who came to see the girl graduate. Yes, I took a plastic bag of water. I was so thirsty. I had read that the plastic bags with the blue writing were OK, but not to drink the clear bags. About half way through drinking the bag I could feel my stomach lurch. I knew that this was not my brightest move and I regretted no bringing my water bottle that I carry everywhere else. My friend and I took the snack bags, but I put them in my bag for later, even though I was hungry I knew that if the water wasn’t so great I shouldn’t risk the double whammy with the snack too.

Soon the girls were collecting money again, but this time is was for their gifts for graduation. We give cards with cash, they stand in front of their families and friends with a kitchen pot and their loved ones give them money. Then the family and friends linger and dance a bit too. I refrained from lingering and dancing as I was the ONLY white person for a few miles in this area and well I’d been trying to blend a little.

The finale of this event was the presentation of the diplomas. It was beautiful and amazing and made the 3 hours of sitting completely worth it! I felt jealous that we don’t celebrate an achievement like this in America! The girls lined up and faced the director shoulder to shoulder. Traditional music played and the Director danced over and circled the first girl and took her arm. She danced her to the front and still arm in arm put her large framed diploma in her arms. Then girl then left the Director and danced all around the perimeter of where the graduates had been sitting to show everyone her diploma, then took her seat. Meanwhile, the Director had gone onto the last girl in line and done the same with her. This continued, one end to the other until the girl in the middle was also presented her diploma. It was beautiful!
Of course there were a million pictures taken and then each girl went to her family and friends and then there were more pictures taken. I of course, being the token white person, was made to take many many pictures. I smiled and tried to hide my ugly canvas bag behind me.

After the graduation we were then invited to the house. At 7:15 my friend told me that we would leave at 8:00pm. I thought this would be good. Then the family began feeding us. My stomach was still not right after the water but I knew that this was special and I couldn’t say no to their food. Of course I forgot to mention that the power had gone out just before we arrived so the food was served in the dark. It was traditional style, which means you eat with your hands. We prayed over the food (of course!) and I began to eat the chicken. But the chicken was more bone and less meat. I mean the chicken bones I boil for my puppy had more meat on them. I felt bad for thinking this but I promise it is the truth. I also thought of my mom and how she loved to suck and nibble at chicken bones. I think that there were times she condemned me for not enjoying this too and for leaving too much meat on the bone. I know she would enjoy this and I wondered if she wasn’t looking down laughing at me as I was doing my best to eat what was on these bone pieces. I smiled to myself.
There was also some mash type carb-based dish that the French call pot. It’s served with a sauce and typically I have the red sauce and it’s made with chicken or fish and it’s tomato-based with lots of hot pepper. I was sadly mistaken this evening when I was given this pot. I not only got the fish head but it was a greenish clear sauce. I laughed with my friend that he would have to eat the eyeballs as I can’t do this yet, but instead he just had them give me the tail piece instead. I was worried that the family would think bad of me or that I was too picky but it didn’t seem to matter. We shared the pot and the tail of the fish. Of course my friend ate the back bone and I had the fish, sauce, and pot all with my fingers. Now I need to explain that the greenish-clear sauce was not just interesting in the dark, but I couldn’t really enjoy the flavor as the consistency was too much like snot and the way it stuck to my fingers reminded me of Slimmer from Ghost Busters. I asked my friend what it was made from a few times, but he didn’t know. I wondered if okra was hidden in it as okra makes thinks slimy, but there is no telling for sure. I just know after I took a bit with my fingers and then closed my pointer, middle, and thumb and then opened them again that a large string of slime connected them. Since the lights were still off I played with my food a little more and my friend laughed at me. I found it more like science than dinner. I think I should get an E for effort in eating this dish for sure. Oh and how could I forget that since it was a very special occasion that they were serving whiskey to wash down the meal. I wish I had known when they were handing out, but I knew that this was very expensive here and I had to toast with everyone else. So I washed all this down with a shot of whiskey. Later I wondered if the alcohol wouldn’t help disinfect any harmful bacteria and was glad I had the whiskey.

We didn’t leave at 8pm, because that was when the power turned on and the dancing began. Oh yes my friends I danced and learned a little African dancing too. I danced with men and little boys and women and laughed until my sides hurt. It was such a great time. I think that we left around 10pm. When one of my friend’s friend also needed to go. We all squished on his moto and rode home. I laughed to myself as we drove home as I was this white girl squished between these black guys on this moto…the human oreo cookie. Oh my life!

I will tell you I spent the next 2 or 3 days taking Imodium and drinking water and eating mild food…my poor tummy. I just know it was the water in the plastic bag that did me in. My body isn’t quite ready to be Togolese yet.

More Pictures!

This is my shower. Please know it is like every shower here...it doesn't work before 9:00am. If you wish to get clean before 9am you squat unter the lower faucet and bathe or use a bucket. I prefer to just shower in the evening and wake up with punky hair and comb and clip it down each morning than be frustrated with the lack of water pressure. It's always a nice cold temperature...another really good reason to take a shower at night as it doesn't feel so cold when I'm hot.

My kitchen...note there is no oven only the camp-like burners to cook, but this is high class compared to the single burner that sits directly on the propane tank that most people have. It gets super hot in here and the bugs multiply like some bizzarre science lab...Thank goodness the geckos like to feed on the bugs! Oh, I do have a small refrigerator that is not in the picture, but that is it. High class, let me tell you! But it's home.

Roxy 11 weeks old.

Roxy 8 weeks old.

Roxy's first day at home...This was 4 weeks ago. She was 8 weeks old.

Julie drawing water from the well to water the lawn. Just in case you were wondering it takes 3 buckets to fill the watering can. I don't know exactly but it's a lot of trips with the watering can to actually water the whole yard.

The back of the yard. This is my roommate, Julie, watering the yard...I hope you are all thankful for sprinklers! Please also notice the clothes lines...our dryer.

This is my house! On the left near the purple flowers is the gate to the street. Then the front door is in the middle. Our awning is great and we love sitting out here. This morning we had brought our living room chairs out and had breakfast. Then the right side is the wall we share with our neighbor. The old fashioned well is along this wall also. I'm standing under the clothes line taking this picture.

Picture Time!!!!

Paula, the lizard who lives in the yard at our house.

Playground at my school.

Picture of me that one of my 5 year olds drew.
It looks just like me!

boy pooping on the beach...all too common!

Me sweeping my room with a traditional broom.

The Wedding

I think I forgot to share about the wedding I went to a few weeks ago and I’m sorry. It was interesting and we had a good time.

We took motos to this nice hotel that also doubles as the Justice of The Peace. It was a courtroom but with big plush chairs rather than wooden benches. When the head official came into the room a woman clapped three times and we all stood up. He marched in and took his seat at the head bench in front of the seated bride and groom. There was a video-grapher taping the ceremony. This is the huge camera from the 80’s with a VHS tape and how can I forget the spotlight that was blinding!

Let me refresh you on this situation. I was invited to be this lady’s friend by her Togolese fiancée one day outside the American Embassy, but I’d only spoken to her on the phone a few times and never met her. She asked if I’d come to the wedding and I know that she is really far from home, so I said yes. Literally, Julie and I were the only other white people beside her. Needless to say we had to be in all the pictures for this reason. It was comical, but fun and she was really nice.

The ceremony was in French and from what Julie said it was not vows, but the official spoke the laws of Togo about the duties of a man and the duties of a woman and what each had to do now that they were married. There wasn’t anything about love or till death do you part. At one part the official even asked the husband if he wanted to have other wives because he had to state it then, for the paperwork of course, during the ceremony. In all fairness he asked the lady too and once it was translated for her she said no also.

We were taken in the groom’s brother’s car to another hotel for more pictures and then to the house. Let me pause and tell you that it was like we left Africa for a few hours. The house was amazing. They even have 3 extra bedrooms and invited us to stay with them. This house was posh by L.A. standards. Then the brother’s house is in the back of their property and the sister’s house is next door. The family compound was amazing! The rooftop was flat and the reception was held up there. The brother and the uncle sat with us. The brother’s wife didn’t sit with us as she had to tend their son and waited hand and foot on her husband too. She even came and fed him at one point. He danced with Julie and I. I felt bad for the wife. Then the uncle basically wanted to make Julie his wife (later we found out her had 2 wives already). He told her that he had money and all the doors to all the top government parties and places would be opened to her. I laughed as Julie could care less about this. He told us how his father was a general in the military. Just a tidbit, there are basically 20 generals who share the GDP in Togo. The people do not really see this money as they spend it outside the country or share it only with each other. We were in a different realm that what we see each day in our area of Lome.

We danced to American music, ate well, and drinks never stopped coming to our table. It was crazy. Then they called the driver when it was time for us to go home, but then they decided to take us home themselves. The uncle left at the same time and he drove like a maniac behind our car the whole way home. It was crazy. I was never so happy to get back to Lome and my chaotic street. Julie even turned to me at one point and asked me to pray that we make it home safely. When they dropped us at our street we went to the primary school where there is a guardian just incase the uncle decided to find out where we live. We felt it was a wiser place to go. We saw our friends there too so it was nice to be in familiar surroundings.

I will see my new friend again, but it will be mellower next time.

Moto Rides

I wish I could make a video, well may be I will later, of a moto ride around the city. You could at least see the experience minus the wind in your hair and your knuckles gripping the back bar of the bike. It would be good for you to see.

Last week Julie and I were on a mission and so we hopped on our hired motos and we were off. These particular moto guys were some real speed demons. It was like they were racing each other almost. HONESTLY!!! My moto-man would pass Julie and I would make faces and she would laugh at my white knuckles clenched to the back of the moto and my hair flying every which way. She knew I was praying. I can’t tell you how fast we were going (because all the moto speedometers are broken), but I know it was really fast, OK.
Julie on the other hand has an entirely different posture on the motos. This particular night I remember looking at her with a cigarette in her right hand as she smoked and made sure it didn’t go out in the wind. Her left hand rest relaxed on her left thigh and she looked around like she was floating down the river in a calm current. Her hair tossed a bit but she was elegant on the back of that moto and I was envious.

Down the road we realized that one of the other French teachers was riding with her boyfriend on his moto. The teacher said hello to me and then her boyfriend sped up to greet Julie and then ducked back to me. She and I can’t really talk as I don’t know French and she doesn’t know much English, but she is really friendly and I like her. She had asked me to teach her French students Old MacDonald Had A Farm last week and loves that her kids sing it now. When they ducked back to talk to me again we smiled and she stated to sing Old MacDonald Had A Farm and I joined in. We were buzzing down the main road in Lome, at high speed, singing at the top of our lungs. Her boyfriend laughed and my moto-man thought it was bizarre but we laughed as they turned off.

Later Julie did tell me how the moto was going so fast that her driver had tears rolling down his face and splashing on her face! We laugh about that night still!

Potty Training & Other Puppy Fun

Potty training a 10 week old puppy is just as un-enjoyable in Africa as it is in America. I will give Roxy some credit for doing better at night and during the day. She is still deciding if it is better to do her business behind the door (so it smears all over the floor when you open the door) or in the bathroom next to the toilet. At any rate she is improving and I hope that by the end of the month she will not only be potty trained but also sitting 100% of the time she is told. I think she is at 75% right now.

I truly am a proud momma. I love how her little nub of a tail wiggles when she is happy. She seems to always want to be near and play so that is always nice to be loved. Her hair (coloring included) is like that of a Rottweiler so it doesn’t shed really and it dries super fast when she is wet. Oh and have I mentioned that she gives the best doggie kisses one has ever received. I pick her up and hold her in my arms and she nuzzles my neck and licks my chin as though I really am her momma. Julie just laughs at us.

Last weekend while I was doing my laundry (my Sunday ritual) in the yard by the pipe, Roxy wandered over. She was smelling around and I couldn’t resist dunking her in my rinse water too. The tub is big enough for her to swim in and I think she liked it after the initial look of confusion. Then of course she ran around possessed by joy and elation as she circled and ran figure eights all over the yard. After that she returned to her sandy spot to lay and roll in the sand…needless to say I apologized to Julie as our lady had just cleaned the floors the day before and Roxy, the four legged sand ball, was going to mess that up in a hurry. I will say that our cement floor is much better than carpet for potty training clean up, but in the way of human traffic it seems that the sand from the street comes in on feet and shoes and blows in on the wind more than I can even describe. The perpetual cycle of sweeping and moping the floor is a losing battle. I’m glad that Julie and I are not obsessive compulsive about cleaning as we would not be able to teach here.


Roxy has become fond of digging the top layer of sand away under our tin awning where we sit outside. She knows the sand is cool and I’m glad she is clever; however, she doesn’t see anything wrong with digging that top layer of sand onto your foot while you are sitting in the chairs. I think that she takes after Julie because when I moved into the house Julie told me how she liked to put her feet in and under the sand because it feels good. I think Roxy is taking all the best qualities from both of us. She speaks French and English already…if only Julie would speak to me in French too I might learn French.

Last week I went to Grande Marché and visited the butchers. I saw, heard, and smelt things that I think I will refrain from sharing with you. Just know it involved piles of raw meat of all types and men in stained clothes with machetes. It wasn’t the greatest thing I’ve done in Lome to say the least. I went there to get my teething puppy a few bones to cook up and let her chew on. Julie didn’t like this so much as the odor from the bones cooking was horrible and the bones don’t smell great either, but Roxy enjoys her bones so much. I feel that it’s great for us too as she chews on our fingers and toes a little less. I think that the men at Grande Marché will know me very well over this year.

Finding The Beach

Julie, my roommate, and I decided we needed to hit the private beach so we walked to the main road and caught motos. I thought all would be fine as she speaks French and I just smile and ride and pay the man at the end of the ride.
We had been riding for a short ways and this man pulls over and basically he tired to take us to the public beach. He was young and argued with Julie, who laughed and always is friendly but firm. So then the moto guys ask directions and we are off again. This happened a few more times and then my moto driver then takes the lead and takes us to another beach that you have to walk through a restaurant first. Then you pay about $4 to go to the beach or go to the saltwater pool. We thought the beach until we saw the 6 feet waves flowing in and that was clearly not what we were thinking. We then switched and went to the pool.

The water was great and we swam and floated and just enjoyed having the pool all to ourselves. We laid out and talked and I read too. It was such a nice day!
After we were done the men tried to tell us that they were doubling our fair as they waited for us. This didn’t faze Julie and she talked them down.

We had them drop us at Grande Marchet and we walked around and even went to the huge western, overpriced store. I loved that out front of the store there were bumper cars. Yes, just like at the county fair! You can have 5 minutes on the bumper cars for about $1 usd. I know that at some point this is going to be a fun thing to do.

On the way home I was continually asked if I was from the Peace Corps. Apparently I looked like I’d been living in the bush, or may be it’s just because I’m American.

Later we found out that the beach we wanted to go to was only $1 entry and you get a drink included in the price. I know there is another beach adventure in our near future!

One Month!

I have now lived in Togo, West Africa for one month. Somehow it doesn’t seem like this has been real. I feel like this is just my life and how it is supposed to be. I teach and I love my seven 5 year olds so much. I can already see a change in them and look forward to all that they will learn this year. I have also added some consulting/teach duties in the afternoon at the primary school. I think this is also good. It has been mentioned that I might work myself into the director position if I stay. It is just a completely different world here.

I’ve come to grips with the fact that no matter how much I travel I will always be an American and I think differently. Things like time, logic, and old school manners are ingrained in me. I am trying to nap each day but I still can’t sleep, regardless of how tired I am. One day in the next few month I am hoping to actually sleep like my roommate does each afternoon rather than lay in bed and stare at the ceiling.

My house is good and my roommate and I are doing great. I feel that living with her brings out the good in both of us. The most conflict we have is when one of us think the other has bought too many groceries or has washed the dishes too many times or cooked too much. Then we pretend that we can’t understand the language (as she speaks French and I speak English) the other is speaking. Then we laugh. I love my puppy too. She is getting stronger and clueing into all kinds of things. She continues to make us laugh and everyone we know loves her too. One of my favorite things she does is when she tries to jump up in the chair until you pick her up and hold her and she cuddles up against you. She is 9 weeks old now and so I am anticipating the terrible twos and teething to begin at some point soon. Oh and I find it hilarious that she understands that we use the restroom and she has begun to also do her business there when we are not home.

I’m becoming well versed in riding all kinds of motos (motorcycles) in all kinds of condition. The key is to relax enough, but still be aware. I’ve been all over Lome and I might go to a village soon. I have to wait and see.

I do all of my laundry by hand out in the yard in plastic wash basins. I think that my clothes are cleaner and it doesn’t take as long to wash by hand as it does to use the machine at the school. Two hours for one washing machine cycle is just more than I can handle.

I have hired a French teacher whom I meet with 2 or 3 times each week and he is slowly helping me understand the language and then practice. I find it difficult because I just don’t have any vocabulary. I think I would have progressed more if I didn’t teach in English all day long and then speak English at home. The only time I need French is when I’m out and I can’t really do much aside from greet everyone. But I will learn French I am determined.

I’m still meeting people and I’ve actually been invited to a wedding this weekend. I met this American girl and she has been living with a Togolese man in the States and now they have moved here and are getting married. It will be fun to meet new people and support her, she seems like a really nice girl. My roommate and I also figure it will be fun to go to the swanky hotel they are getting married at and the food will be good too.

I’ve also managed to get in on the invite list to the Marine House at the embassy. I guess they have weekly events and so that should be an experience.

I do need to mention that I have been to some Togolese homes here in the past few weeks and it humbles me to be invited to their homes where they offer me their best. I pray over the food and water as I don’t have the heart to tell them I am afraid to eat their food. These people work or are supported by family members when they can’t find work. They have big hearts, joyful laughter, and contagious smiles. They have hardly spoken to a white person, let alone had one at their home and it’s special that I get to be with them and share their time. Some of them have electricity, some don’t. Some have a “clean pipe” for water, others don’t. Some have concrete floors, others have dirt. They all live in a close commune type of a situation, whether it is a few cement rooms that share a dirt yard with many other cement room homes with tin roofs and awnings. Others live in apartment building that are spooky dark and open into a basic room that serves as the kitchen, living room, dinning room, and bedroom. They share the coal fire (think rough mini bbq) that they use indoors. They keep it going and pass it to one another when they are finished. They cook with so little and rarely have running water that it makes my conditions seem like royalty. It is beyond me what they would think of my American home. I tried to explain what a microwave was to one friend and he was amazed and it was like I made up a story or something.
These are the best times when I am sharing someone else’s life with them and my life doesn’t even fit into the conversation.

The Pup

Yes! I officially have the cutest puppy ever! She is 8 weeks old and I wish the internet was faster so I could show you all a picture of her! She is a Rottweiler German Sheppard mix. She can’t weigh more than 6 pounds dripping wet and she has these great big brown eyes and who can forget to mention her sweet puppy breath! You can’t tell I’m in love, can you?

My roommate and I got her at the Lucky Pet Shop down the road. Yes, even in Togo the Chinese have pet shops! We laughed at how similar we are because we could agree on a puppy completely in roughly 10 minutes. We also agreed that I’d be the primary trainer as she’s not so fond of that and I love the training. I carried the puppy over to show my friends and then home. When I walked in the gate my roommate asked me what I’d name her. I told her we should name her Roxy. It’s a tough chick name and besides my rock-star roommate in LA played at a club called Roxy and it just seemed fitting.

Roxy stumbles about with her big feet and little body. She is black with brown brindle and a white patch on her chest. You can’t help but laugh and smile when she’s around. I know she will love us and be a good guard dog as she is alert even at night when my roommate gets up for a drink of water. My roommate thinks that she loves me more already and it’s only been a few days. This is because Roxy follows me around and cries if I leave. I think she loves us both but I can understand that since I’m constantly looking out and caring for her I think that she is just more used to me. Roxy does sleep in my bed and we go out to the yard a few times each night. This is killing me but I know that in a few weeks she will sleep through the night.

She will visit the vet soon for her shots and check up. I am so happy to have her as I have had puppy fever for 2 years and now I have the space and time for a dog and this is perfect. I know some of you might wonder what I will do with her next year, but honestly I am considering staying. If I don’t stay one of my directors is a great guy and who loves dogs so he will gladly take her. For now she is ours and she is amazing and great! We are the three lovely ladies living in Lome!

The Break In

Yesterday morning my roommate and I woke up and got ready for school as usual. We were almost ready to leave when I could hear my roommate start swearing in French. I went in to see what was wrong. Basically, someone had broken into our house during the night and went into the room where she keeps her laptop and they had stolen it. Then she realized that her camera, which was next to her bed, was also gone. This was way too much to process 10 minutes before we both had to be at school.

We start moving a little slowly as we processed and talked this over. She was completely heartbroken about almost 100 lesson plans she’d wrote on her computer. This is not to mention her music and pictures and movies that were also gone. As we talked it began to overwhelm me how this person had been just next to her bed as she was sleeping and I was so thankful that she was ok! Then it dawned on me that I had been very cold in the middle of the night and I’d been walking around in my room looking for a long sleeve shirt and then gone back to bed and how it could have been really bad if I’d seen the person. It truly sucks that this happened but I’m so thankful we are both ok.

We’ve talked about this over and over since that morning and a few stupid things that this person did include; leaving the computer cord that they had to have disconnected to take the laptop. Then she realized how her purse had been wide open with money sticking out of it and they didn’t touch it!

The resolve to satisfy other people in the way of security (and possibly you too) is that we are buying a dog. I figured that this is going to be better than hiring a guard as I can hug and kiss and train and sleep with the dog. The guard will just sit in the yard doing nothing and I’ll probably feel bad and have to feed him too. Plus, many of you know that I’ve had puppy fever for about 2 years now and this is the best reason for not just wanting but NEEDING a dog that I’ve every come up with. I’ll keep you posted on what kind, its name, and how our little family is doing when the newest member arrives officially.

Grand Marchet

My roommate and I went to Grande Marchet (the grand market) this afternoon. I LOVED IT!!! If you’ve been to The Fashion District (or the allies) in Los Angeles it’s more chaotic and over-stimulating. I honestly think I can find almost anything there. There is the construction supplies street, the meat market, cloth, clothes from the U.S. in random baskets (including blue jeans), spices, peanut butter paste, cooking supplies, jewelry, fruit, and a million other things. You have all these things on the side of the road, on women’s heads, and on stands just off the street. The merchants call out to you as you try to make your way through all the people and squish to the side of the road when a car or truck actually drives down the road. It’s an amazing sight and I adored being there in all the energy and mixed in with all the people!
We were walking down the street and I was looking around and all of a sudden I felt something hit me on the shoulder and then I heard a crash behind me. A huge umbrella from one of the stands fell over and hit me. Everyone stopped dead in their spot and stared. Several people came up to me and basically said “white person are you ok?” I was fine and it wasn’t as traumatic for me as it was for them I think.

Answers To Questions From A Friend

This post is dedicated to Jenni! I love you! Here are the answers to your questions and other fun facts about my life. I am sorry there are no pictures yet, just think slow dial-up and that is what it’s like here.

I must admit I am equally surprised that I have not ended Charlotte’s life as she is this very flat crab like grey spider with white stripes on her legs, but my roommate has me convinced that she is harmless…I hope that she is correct or Charlotte will be no more. Not to mention that anything that wants to eat mosquitoes is totally worth a chance.

I need to pause here and tell you that I brought my computer into school today and showed my kids all the animals I have managed to take pictures of over the years. I made sure to show them Ruby and said “ This is Ruby, she is a really big dog! Can you say hello to Ruby?” They responded in perfect unison in their 5 year old voices “Hello Ruby!” I wish you’d been there to see them. You would have loved it!
I also showed them all my pictures of creatures and flowers from hikes and how could I ever leave out THE Farm! They loved saying hello to all the animals too. I missed Burbank all morning.

Overall my days are very laid back and I love them. I teach for the morning and we are really doing school and then kids are progressing well. I feel like some are pushed so hard at home that I need to make sure they are playing and interacting as they learn. The overall thought to learning here is worksheet, worksheet, worksheet. I had one little boy removed from the program by his dad because I was not doing enough worksheets and the worksheets I did do were not challenging enough. The kids and I miss the little boy a lot and I hope he is ok in his new school.
In the afternoons, after siesta, I now go to the primary school to teach. It’s up the road the other direction (it’s where I first lived when I moved here). There is a class of kids there who are in the English speaking program. There are 6 children; two 2nd graders, one 3rd grader, two 4th graders, and a 5th grader. Since their teacher is not a trained teacher and has given her 2 weeks notice I have been asked to go and teach them and make sure they are learning in the afternoons on Monday, Tuesday, and Thursday. (On a side note if anyone would like to teach this class please let me know A.S.A.P.) This means I don’t get to teach English anymore, but that’s ok as I don’t think I was very good at it anyway.

You had a question about food. I am still eating the oatmeal that I brought from the states for breakfast but I know that this will end in a few weeks and so I’m exploring what fiber filled something I can eat to start my day when the oatmeal ends. I think there is a grain-like mush that I will turn to. There is so much fruit and vegetables that are sold on the side of the road for cheap so I eat a lot of those. Oh and please I can’t leave out all the break and starch! There is so much rice, pasta, couscous, and bread that it’s incredible! I am trying not to eat it very much but it’s here in large quantities!
For lunch my roommate and I dice up avocado, tomato, onions, and cucumber and eat it with bread or plain. We always end each meal with fruit like pineapple or papaya or oranges.
Dinner is always something thrown together in the skillet. Vegetables, rice, couscous, you get the idea. Oh!!! There was the exception last night! I was sitting with my friend having tea when my roommate came home and then left saying something about food. She came back with food she bought on the street. It was rice and cooked fish heads. Yes, my friends it wasn’t the body of the fish, only the head. My friend of course stayed to show us how to eat the eyes and brain and backbone since that is “where all the vitamins are”. I have to confess that the eye on my fork was too much for me and I passed it over to my friend, who gladly ate it.
I’ve had a lot of fish now that I think of it, but not much chicken and no other meat that I’m aware of. I was thinking about making some chicken but have heard that you have to go to the meat market and buy the meat there. I need to #1 find the meat market and #2 dare to enter the odorific place. I have seen lots of dead chickens with feathers and bizarre looks on their faces stuck in a large bowl/tub and balanced on women’s heads on the street. I don’t think I can do the plucking a chicken without some instructions. Some of you might know that I used to hide in the house while my parents butchered our chickens and I was allowed to play in mom’s jewelry box. That’s all I know about butchering chickens and oh something about needing hot water. So may be my friend will show me or even do it for me? It seems that everyone likes to do everything for me here anyway (laundry, cleaning, etc.) so we will see.

I hope this helps Jenni (and everyone else who had some questions). If you have more curious questions let me know, comment, e-mail, or facebook me. I LOVE hearing from the States and its fun to know what you might ask if we were sitting over tea or lunch talking.

Have a great day!

The Moto Experiences

On Tuesday I went with my roommate and some French teachers to the pizza place to each the FLATEST pizza ever seen with human eyes and to watch a French chick-flick on a DVD projector…I don’t think the FBI would approve but this is all we have for a movie theater here so please don’t report this.
Oh but I first must mention the motorcycle (from now on known as moto or machine) ride to the place was one that I will never forget, ok may be they are all like this right now but I’m doing a lot of praying as I ride to say the least. My roommate negotiated the price in French and we got the 2 motos to take us. Well my moto driver had a ghetto machine and as we went up the small small hill I could see my roommate on her moto zooming ahead as I drifted to an almost stop. Then to top it off, when we got to the top to the hill the guy was clearly lost and didn’t know where to take me. He darted in and out of traffic, drove on the opposite lane (mind you it’s dark and there really aren’t street lights here). He turned around like Evil Coeval himself, and then ground to a halt in the street to ask where this place was. Then we zoomed off. He then took another wrong turn and pretty much repeated this cycle again. But he got me there eventually. My roommate text me and called me and was worried but very happy to see me when I did get to the place. I feel like I should have been more concerned but I just remember thinking that he gets paid the same amount if he gets lost or not so I’ll get there eventually.
The movie was ok. I couldn’t really see the subtitles but the point of going was to listen to French since I speak English all day I don’t really get much French immersion and I desperately needed a little more.

Believe it or not I took another moto later on in the week, by myself, and he also got lost and expected me to communicate the directions…yeah, that was funny. But I got there after stopped to ask a few people where I was trying to go. All was well. I got home with no difficulty. I suppose that it’s just living and learning.

Moving

This morning I moved to the house down the street. My friend has been living here for the past 2 weeks or so and I visit almost daily and so this is logical and I’m so happy to live in a house where I will have a kitchen, but don’t think modern here. It’s like camping but it’s a small room with a propane stove (no oven), a double sink, and a small refrigerator. Then there is a stall-like room that is the shower and small stall-like room with a toilet that is jimmy-rigged together, but it works and that’s what counts I guess.
My room is a nice size, bigger than at the compound and I even get a double bed and the mattress is VERY firm to say the least. I guess it’s either super soft and squishy foam or the firm version. I’m happy to have the firm so this is good. I also have a desk and two shelves. Our small coffee table that doubles as a dining room table with the four chairs can easily transported outside under our grass roofed awning to enjoy the ocean breeze over the walls of our yard. Oh and we have a coconut tree in our yard too. I just need to figure how to get the 10 or so cocoanuts out of the tree now.

My friend and I cleaned the house and I unpacked today. We had the chauffer and guardian in for coffee when they dropped me off this morning and that was fun. I realized that I’m picking up on certain key words and so I can kinda sorta follow a basic conversation. That was a nice and exciting moment this morning too. Then the guardian made sure that the school’s carpenter guy came over later and helped me to hang my mosquito net here. I was very grateful as the way my ceiling is constructed it wasn’t so easy.

Many of the Togolese workers at the school were sad that I was moving and told me on and off during the week how they were sad I was moving. It kinda felt like everyone was saying good-bye like I was moving back to the U.S. I love that I have a community here already!

I don’t need to go and get any pets here as I have much wildlife that lives here (in the house too). We have Paula the lizard who lives outside in the yard, Lizzy the small lizard who runs around inside the house, the gecko that lives in the kitchen, Charlotte the HUGE spider that lived in my roommate’s room but decided that my widow is a better spot. So I won’t count or name the mosquitoes, ants, and various birds but they are also ever present. Life is good.

Please remember that anyone is welcome to visit and there is a third bedroom in the house too. It would be great to have a familiar face to show around town.

How I Got My Cell Phone

On Thursday morning I saw the man who helps us (Americans) get things. He is basically our “go to man” if you will. As I spoke with him I explained that I had money to buy a cell phone now and when he had time I would like to get one from him. He told me that I should meet him at the compound where I currently live at noon to give him the money and to get the phone.
At noon I made sure to get to the compound on the dot so I could get a phone. Well, he took my money and said that another man was coming at 12:30 to give me my phone. I went and visited with another teacher and then came back to the office at 12:20 and the office was closed up for siesta. So I sat and began talking to the guard or guardian as they call his position here. This is the man who lifts cement weights. I thought I heard him say that my phone was in the office and the office would open at 1. At 1:15 I asked again and he said it would be 2:30 when the office opened and yes, my phone was in the office. I laughed and chalked this up to my inability to understand French, but I had a good time talking with the guardian so it wasn’t a waste of time. I’m not really sure there is such a thing as wasting time here in Togo.
So I returned at 5pm after school to the office at the compound and the guardian said yes, my phone was in the office. I went into the office and asked the secretariate if she had seen my phone. She told me that she gave it to another American who lives in the compound too. So I went up to the third floor to check it out. Nope, he told me that he didn’t have it but he thought that the lady who cleans and cooks for the kids where we stay might have it. So when she returned I asked her (with his help) and I got my phone!

They explained that the charger was plugged into the phone and I would need to charge the phone ALL night. So I did it. Yeah, the person who plugged the charger into the phone put it into the earphone jack instead of the charging plug. So it clearly didn’t charge. I plugged it in to charge correctly and it seemed to be charging all day on Friday. The “go to man” saw me and asked about the phone and explained that if it didn’t work a man would come and replace it right then. He’s so nice and I really appreciated him. It seems that there are so many people that see me as a white person that they could take advantage of financially and especially since I can’t speak French I’m a walking sucker.

Then of course I had to add to this excitement, it’s the Nina way don’t you know. I got excited about the phone and start giving people my number, but I wrote down the wrong number. After figuring this out I had to apologize and correct this error over the course of several days. It’s so funny and so far everyone has been forgiving and nice.

I continue to learn that things have a different rhythm here in Togo and it’s beautiful but stretches me at the same time to leave my American thought pattern aside. I know that after living here I will never be to same.