25 September, 2009

The Pup

Yes! I officially have the cutest puppy ever! She is 8 weeks old and I wish the internet was faster so I could show you all a picture of her! She is a Rottweiler German Sheppard mix. She can’t weigh more than 6 pounds dripping wet and she has these great big brown eyes and who can forget to mention her sweet puppy breath! You can’t tell I’m in love, can you?

My roommate and I got her at the Lucky Pet Shop down the road. Yes, even in Togo the Chinese have pet shops! We laughed at how similar we are because we could agree on a puppy completely in roughly 10 minutes. We also agreed that I’d be the primary trainer as she’s not so fond of that and I love the training. I carried the puppy over to show my friends and then home. When I walked in the gate my roommate asked me what I’d name her. I told her we should name her Roxy. It’s a tough chick name and besides my rock-star roommate in LA played at a club called Roxy and it just seemed fitting.

Roxy stumbles about with her big feet and little body. She is black with brown brindle and a white patch on her chest. You can’t help but laugh and smile when she’s around. I know she will love us and be a good guard dog as she is alert even at night when my roommate gets up for a drink of water. My roommate thinks that she loves me more already and it’s only been a few days. This is because Roxy follows me around and cries if I leave. I think she loves us both but I can understand that since I’m constantly looking out and caring for her I think that she is just more used to me. Roxy does sleep in my bed and we go out to the yard a few times each night. This is killing me but I know that in a few weeks she will sleep through the night.

She will visit the vet soon for her shots and check up. I am so happy to have her as I have had puppy fever for 2 years and now I have the space and time for a dog and this is perfect. I know some of you might wonder what I will do with her next year, but honestly I am considering staying. If I don’t stay one of my directors is a great guy and who loves dogs so he will gladly take her. For now she is ours and she is amazing and great! We are the three lovely ladies living in Lome!

23 September, 2009

The Break In

Yesterday morning my roommate and I woke up and got ready for school as usual. We were almost ready to leave when I could hear my roommate start swearing in French. I went in to see what was wrong. Basically, someone had broken into our house during the night and went into the room where she keeps her laptop and they had stolen it. Then she realized that her camera, which was next to her bed, was also gone. This was way too much to process 10 minutes before we both had to be at school.

We start moving a little slowly as we processed and talked this over. She was completely heartbroken about almost 100 lesson plans she’d wrote on her computer. This is not to mention her music and pictures and movies that were also gone. As we talked it began to overwhelm me how this person had been just next to her bed as she was sleeping and I was so thankful that she was ok! Then it dawned on me that I had been very cold in the middle of the night and I’d been walking around in my room looking for a long sleeve shirt and then gone back to bed and how it could have been really bad if I’d seen the person. It truly sucks that this happened but I’m so thankful we are both ok.

We’ve talked about this over and over since that morning and a few stupid things that this person did include; leaving the computer cord that they had to have disconnected to take the laptop. Then she realized how her purse had been wide open with money sticking out of it and they didn’t touch it!

The resolve to satisfy other people in the way of security (and possibly you too) is that we are buying a dog. I figured that this is going to be better than hiring a guard as I can hug and kiss and train and sleep with the dog. The guard will just sit in the yard doing nothing and I’ll probably feel bad and have to feed him too. Plus, many of you know that I’ve had puppy fever for about 2 years now and this is the best reason for not just wanting but NEEDING a dog that I’ve every come up with. I’ll keep you posted on what kind, its name, and how our little family is doing when the newest member arrives officially.

Grand Marchet

My roommate and I went to Grande Marchet (the grand market) this afternoon. I LOVED IT!!! If you’ve been to The Fashion District (or the allies) in Los Angeles it’s more chaotic and over-stimulating. I honestly think I can find almost anything there. There is the construction supplies street, the meat market, cloth, clothes from the U.S. in random baskets (including blue jeans), spices, peanut butter paste, cooking supplies, jewelry, fruit, and a million other things. You have all these things on the side of the road, on women’s heads, and on stands just off the street. The merchants call out to you as you try to make your way through all the people and squish to the side of the road when a car or truck actually drives down the road. It’s an amazing sight and I adored being there in all the energy and mixed in with all the people!
We were walking down the street and I was looking around and all of a sudden I felt something hit me on the shoulder and then I heard a crash behind me. A huge umbrella from one of the stands fell over and hit me. Everyone stopped dead in their spot and stared. Several people came up to me and basically said “white person are you ok?” I was fine and it wasn’t as traumatic for me as it was for them I think.

21 September, 2009

Answers To Questions From A Friend

This post is dedicated to Jenni! I love you! Here are the answers to your questions and other fun facts about my life. I am sorry there are no pictures yet, just think slow dial-up and that is what it’s like here.

I must admit I am equally surprised that I have not ended Charlotte’s life as she is this very flat crab like grey spider with white stripes on her legs, but my roommate has me convinced that she is harmless…I hope that she is correct or Charlotte will be no more. Not to mention that anything that wants to eat mosquitoes is totally worth a chance.

I need to pause here and tell you that I brought my computer into school today and showed my kids all the animals I have managed to take pictures of over the years. I made sure to show them Ruby and said “ This is Ruby, she is a really big dog! Can you say hello to Ruby?” They responded in perfect unison in their 5 year old voices “Hello Ruby!” I wish you’d been there to see them. You would have loved it!
I also showed them all my pictures of creatures and flowers from hikes and how could I ever leave out THE Farm! They loved saying hello to all the animals too. I missed Burbank all morning.

Overall my days are very laid back and I love them. I teach for the morning and we are really doing school and then kids are progressing well. I feel like some are pushed so hard at home that I need to make sure they are playing and interacting as they learn. The overall thought to learning here is worksheet, worksheet, worksheet. I had one little boy removed from the program by his dad because I was not doing enough worksheets and the worksheets I did do were not challenging enough. The kids and I miss the little boy a lot and I hope he is ok in his new school.
In the afternoons, after siesta, I now go to the primary school to teach. It’s up the road the other direction (it’s where I first lived when I moved here). There is a class of kids there who are in the English speaking program. There are 6 children; two 2nd graders, one 3rd grader, two 4th graders, and a 5th grader. Since their teacher is not a trained teacher and has given her 2 weeks notice I have been asked to go and teach them and make sure they are learning in the afternoons on Monday, Tuesday, and Thursday. (On a side note if anyone would like to teach this class please let me know A.S.A.P.) This means I don’t get to teach English anymore, but that’s ok as I don’t think I was very good at it anyway.

You had a question about food. I am still eating the oatmeal that I brought from the states for breakfast but I know that this will end in a few weeks and so I’m exploring what fiber filled something I can eat to start my day when the oatmeal ends. I think there is a grain-like mush that I will turn to. There is so much fruit and vegetables that are sold on the side of the road for cheap so I eat a lot of those. Oh and please I can’t leave out all the break and starch! There is so much rice, pasta, couscous, and bread that it’s incredible! I am trying not to eat it very much but it’s here in large quantities!
For lunch my roommate and I dice up avocado, tomato, onions, and cucumber and eat it with bread or plain. We always end each meal with fruit like pineapple or papaya or oranges.
Dinner is always something thrown together in the skillet. Vegetables, rice, couscous, you get the idea. Oh!!! There was the exception last night! I was sitting with my friend having tea when my roommate came home and then left saying something about food. She came back with food she bought on the street. It was rice and cooked fish heads. Yes, my friends it wasn’t the body of the fish, only the head. My friend of course stayed to show us how to eat the eyes and brain and backbone since that is “where all the vitamins are”. I have to confess that the eye on my fork was too much for me and I passed it over to my friend, who gladly ate it.
I’ve had a lot of fish now that I think of it, but not much chicken and no other meat that I’m aware of. I was thinking about making some chicken but have heard that you have to go to the meat market and buy the meat there. I need to #1 find the meat market and #2 dare to enter the odorific place. I have seen lots of dead chickens with feathers and bizarre looks on their faces stuck in a large bowl/tub and balanced on women’s heads on the street. I don’t think I can do the plucking a chicken without some instructions. Some of you might know that I used to hide in the house while my parents butchered our chickens and I was allowed to play in mom’s jewelry box. That’s all I know about butchering chickens and oh something about needing hot water. So may be my friend will show me or even do it for me? It seems that everyone likes to do everything for me here anyway (laundry, cleaning, etc.) so we will see.

I hope this helps Jenni (and everyone else who had some questions). If you have more curious questions let me know, comment, e-mail, or facebook me. I LOVE hearing from the States and its fun to know what you might ask if we were sitting over tea or lunch talking.

Have a great day!

18 September, 2009

The Moto Experiences

On Tuesday I went with my roommate and some French teachers to the pizza place to each the FLATEST pizza ever seen with human eyes and to watch a French chick-flick on a DVD projector…I don’t think the FBI would approve but this is all we have for a movie theater here so please don’t report this.
Oh but I first must mention the motorcycle (from now on known as moto or machine) ride to the place was one that I will never forget, ok may be they are all like this right now but I’m doing a lot of praying as I ride to say the least. My roommate negotiated the price in French and we got the 2 motos to take us. Well my moto driver had a ghetto machine and as we went up the small small hill I could see my roommate on her moto zooming ahead as I drifted to an almost stop. Then to top it off, when we got to the top to the hill the guy was clearly lost and didn’t know where to take me. He darted in and out of traffic, drove on the opposite lane (mind you it’s dark and there really aren’t street lights here). He turned around like Evil Coeval himself, and then ground to a halt in the street to ask where this place was. Then we zoomed off. He then took another wrong turn and pretty much repeated this cycle again. But he got me there eventually. My roommate text me and called me and was worried but very happy to see me when I did get to the place. I feel like I should have been more concerned but I just remember thinking that he gets paid the same amount if he gets lost or not so I’ll get there eventually.
The movie was ok. I couldn’t really see the subtitles but the point of going was to listen to French since I speak English all day I don’t really get much French immersion and I desperately needed a little more.

Believe it or not I took another moto later on in the week, by myself, and he also got lost and expected me to communicate the directions…yeah, that was funny. But I got there after stopped to ask a few people where I was trying to go. All was well. I got home with no difficulty. I suppose that it’s just living and learning.

16 September, 2009

Moving

This morning I moved to the house down the street. My friend has been living here for the past 2 weeks or so and I visit almost daily and so this is logical and I’m so happy to live in a house where I will have a kitchen, but don’t think modern here. It’s like camping but it’s a small room with a propane stove (no oven), a double sink, and a small refrigerator. Then there is a stall-like room that is the shower and small stall-like room with a toilet that is jimmy-rigged together, but it works and that’s what counts I guess.
My room is a nice size, bigger than at the compound and I even get a double bed and the mattress is VERY firm to say the least. I guess it’s either super soft and squishy foam or the firm version. I’m happy to have the firm so this is good. I also have a desk and two shelves. Our small coffee table that doubles as a dining room table with the four chairs can easily transported outside under our grass roofed awning to enjoy the ocean breeze over the walls of our yard. Oh and we have a coconut tree in our yard too. I just need to figure how to get the 10 or so cocoanuts out of the tree now.

My friend and I cleaned the house and I unpacked today. We had the chauffer and guardian in for coffee when they dropped me off this morning and that was fun. I realized that I’m picking up on certain key words and so I can kinda sorta follow a basic conversation. That was a nice and exciting moment this morning too. Then the guardian made sure that the school’s carpenter guy came over later and helped me to hang my mosquito net here. I was very grateful as the way my ceiling is constructed it wasn’t so easy.

Many of the Togolese workers at the school were sad that I was moving and told me on and off during the week how they were sad I was moving. It kinda felt like everyone was saying good-bye like I was moving back to the U.S. I love that I have a community here already!

I don’t need to go and get any pets here as I have much wildlife that lives here (in the house too). We have Paula the lizard who lives outside in the yard, Lizzy the small lizard who runs around inside the house, the gecko that lives in the kitchen, Charlotte the HUGE spider that lived in my roommate’s room but decided that my widow is a better spot. So I won’t count or name the mosquitoes, ants, and various birds but they are also ever present. Life is good.

Please remember that anyone is welcome to visit and there is a third bedroom in the house too. It would be great to have a familiar face to show around town.

09 September, 2009

How I Got My Cell Phone

On Thursday morning I saw the man who helps us (Americans) get things. He is basically our “go to man” if you will. As I spoke with him I explained that I had money to buy a cell phone now and when he had time I would like to get one from him. He told me that I should meet him at the compound where I currently live at noon to give him the money and to get the phone.
At noon I made sure to get to the compound on the dot so I could get a phone. Well, he took my money and said that another man was coming at 12:30 to give me my phone. I went and visited with another teacher and then came back to the office at 12:20 and the office was closed up for siesta. So I sat and began talking to the guard or guardian as they call his position here. This is the man who lifts cement weights. I thought I heard him say that my phone was in the office and the office would open at 1. At 1:15 I asked again and he said it would be 2:30 when the office opened and yes, my phone was in the office. I laughed and chalked this up to my inability to understand French, but I had a good time talking with the guardian so it wasn’t a waste of time. I’m not really sure there is such a thing as wasting time here in Togo.
So I returned at 5pm after school to the office at the compound and the guardian said yes, my phone was in the office. I went into the office and asked the secretariate if she had seen my phone. She told me that she gave it to another American who lives in the compound too. So I went up to the third floor to check it out. Nope, he told me that he didn’t have it but he thought that the lady who cleans and cooks for the kids where we stay might have it. So when she returned I asked her (with his help) and I got my phone!

They explained that the charger was plugged into the phone and I would need to charge the phone ALL night. So I did it. Yeah, the person who plugged the charger into the phone put it into the earphone jack instead of the charging plug. So it clearly didn’t charge. I plugged it in to charge correctly and it seemed to be charging all day on Friday. The “go to man” saw me and asked about the phone and explained that if it didn’t work a man would come and replace it right then. He’s so nice and I really appreciated him. It seems that there are so many people that see me as a white person that they could take advantage of financially and especially since I can’t speak French I’m a walking sucker.

Then of course I had to add to this excitement, it’s the Nina way don’t you know. I got excited about the phone and start giving people my number, but I wrote down the wrong number. After figuring this out I had to apologize and correct this error over the course of several days. It’s so funny and so far everyone has been forgiving and nice.

I continue to learn that things have a different rhythm here in Togo and it’s beautiful but stretches me at the same time to leave my American thought pattern aside. I know that after living here I will never be to same.

02 September, 2009

First Day of School

Today was like breathing clean fresh air! It was the first day of school and I was at peace and in love with teaching and kids just like so many years ago when I started. The classroom is where I belong and what I plan on doing forever!
I had 5 students and we went through our day with joy and ease. They are all 5 years old and on many levels (some should be in 1st grade so we will see how that goes). We designed Science Journals, read a story, wrote some words, had snack & recess, did some math with shapes. I can honestly say that I was sad when the end of the day smacked me in the face. I am looking forward to tomorrow.

It seems that I can access the internet at the secondary school's computer lab on Wednesdays and Fridays. I hope to do so. I will be here between 3 and 5pm my time (west coast of Africa that is) so if you are online and want to chat via gmail or Skype that would be fun and nice to hear from friends. Please if you have comments or questions just post them here on the blog or e-mail me. I know that there must be things that you are wondering about life here and I'd love to share.

There is talk of moving me out of the compound and into a house with my Belgium friend, so next week I might move down the street. It would be nice but I guess the plumbing in the kitchen, shower, and the toilet are broken at the moment and I'd like to stay where I am until it's fixed, but we will see. I know that a bed was purchased but not yet assembled for me. Oh and by bed I would like you to imagine a very rudimentary twin bed with a 3 or 4 inch piece of foam for the mattress. This is pretty much what I sleep on now but I heard that it might be a 5 or 6 inch piece of foam at the house. The upgrade would be nice and welcomed. lol!

Aug 30th

I started work today in my classroom. It was quite a task. Basically, everything was thrown into plastic bags and into this random armoire cabinet thingie in my room. So I began cleaning it out. At first the girl helping me was apprehensive and felt that it wasn’t ok to throw crafts away even if the construction paper was faded and there were dirt spots on it. She flat out told me “We never clean out that cabinet, we just put things in it.” I threw 2 trash bags of old stuff in the trash and it was good. Heaven help us if I had to keep it all year! Throughout the course of the morning I found hairy spiders, a beetle, a gecko, and 2 HUGE roaches (like I used to find in my classroom in L.A.) in various spots arounf my room. I’m glad that the lizards that run around outside stayed outside!
Oh and I should mention that there are 2 bunnies that live in the playground area at my school! I wish Fred, my bunny, were here too. So today I brought each bunny a carrot and fed them. I have already set up a container in my kitchen to keep vegetable scraps for them. I will keep you posted on what I name them.

After everyone had left for siesta I continued to work and sort and throw old things away and then hang up boarders for my word walls and organized the tables and chairs. My Belgium friend stopped by and asked if I wanted to go to the library with her. I said yes. We worked a bit more and then I grabbed a quick lunch at the compound and met her. We decided to take a moto. Yes my friends I took my first African motorcycle ride today. After we flagged down 2 motos (which was funny because they are always empty passing you by when you are walking but now that we wanted one there wasn’t an empty moto in sight!) she haggled for the price and then we were off. Now you hang onto the rack that is behind you while seated on the moto and your feet rest on these make-shift peddles, that is when you’re feet aren’t bouncing all over because of the bumps. I think that my moto guy hit almost all the potholes just for fun. I tried not to laugh and smile as I already stuck out being the second white lady on a moto flying through Lome behind my friend on the moto in front of me. I’m sure this was a funny sight!

After the library, which was really a bookstore, we walked to the bank but had to ask directions a few times. Then we had to go to a different bank which required asking more directions. At one such encounter she was talking to this security man about which way and how far (as my French is super horrible and almost non existent) and another security man walks up to her and apparently says “It’s not far don’t worry, but I want to marry her” and he points at me. I smile obliviously. He repeats it and then she translates. I then point to the wedding ring I’m wearing for such occasions. This man is undeterred, so we walk away and laugh about these crazy men thinking we would say yes.

We eventually walked back to the compound and then to the secondary school campus to see if we can get online. No such luck. But we were in the right place at the right time and the principal took our passports to get our work visas. This is good as my visa expires in 3 days.

This evening I did venture to experience a cyber cafĂ© after dinner. These were computers that are regularly discarded in America, you know the huge monitors that are discolored orange plastic. So I get on and it’s slow…slower than the Wi-Fi we used to get on the roof. Then I realize the letters on the keys are painted with whiteout but they are also all mixed up! Oh for the love of Pete I couldn’t find the period key to save my life. I finally asked and felt like it was my first computer class ever! I struggled with other punctuation and never did find the question mark. The man did come over and help me a few more times but as helpful as this was it attracts the wrong kind of attention so the girl next to me (who was just hanging out) starred quite a bit.
I got an e-mail from one of my kids in L.A. I almost cried for the first time. It made me miss all 7 of my kids there, but it also made me feel loved and remembered and it touched me deep in my heart. I can see that this year will have some very lonely moments and its small things like e-mails that will make me remember good times and that I’m not forgotten.

So I had another fun day in Lome! I hope as you reflect on your day you can see the joy and silliness that life has brought for you to enjoy too.

August 30th

The market was big; however, I was with other people and I didn’t get to explore all of it. I know that next time I will see more and more as The Grand Marche is huge. We were mostly in the fruit and vegetable area but I did see tubs of dead chickens balanced on the heads of men and flopping with each stride the man took. I saw the empty bottles from vaccinations being sold, and I smelled the sea air mixed with people and waste of all kinds. I would have liked to take more pictures but I feel it would only increase my chances of being mugged at the market so I will collect pictures little by little.

The girls I was at the market with, and I walked almost an hour back to the school compound. I thought it was half this distance but trekking in the periodic rain, carrying heavy bundles from the market was a bonding experience. I guess my new friends are women not girls as one is an older lady who has been living in northern Togo for over 9 years and she is very sweet. We share a common area, kitchen, and restroom in the dorm on the 3rd floor of the Primary School compound campus. There are 3 campuses in all, so I teach at campus about 4 blocks away. The other woman is a little younger than I am and is from Belgium. She speaks French and teaches at the Secondary Campus up the street the other way. She speaks more English than I speak French so we communicate in English mostly, but she is helping me learn some things in French. She also has a house that is in between the compound where I live and the school I teach at so it is easy to walk down the street to see her.
Yesterday she had several of us over for dinner and it was so nice. Then some people went home and she and I and 2 other people went to a Jazz Club here in Lome. I was impressed until the band played the ‘Call Me Al’ song by Paul Simon and the singer didn’t know hardly any words, but the music was good. They played American, French, and African songs while people listened and danced. I had a nice time and even observed a group of the white men who brought African women out as dates/escorts/prostitutes…there is nothing new under the sun.

Today my Belgium friend and I went for a walk along the beach. I am an eight minute walk to the waves lapping my toes. I never would have thought that I could live closer to the beach than I was in L.A. but I am right now and it’s AWESOME! The beach was nice but you could tell how powerful the undertow was so we just walked and watched and chatted some. When we sat for a moment 2 Togolese guys came and sat on each side of us and were hitting on us. This is common as they don’t see us as anything but a visa and way out of Togo. So the guy who was talking to me realized that I don’t speak French so he had some English so we chatted a bit, but he was confused why my friend spoke French and I didn’t and wanted to know how we communicated and I told him in English some. He wanted to know how long I was planning to stay in Togo and per my friend’s idea and advise the other night you tell these men years or that you are moving here and they lose interest rather quickly. So I told him that I was going to teach in Togo for many many years. The look on his face was classic and he truly did lose interest. It was so funny and my friend and I laughed at this later.

Life is good and I am getting more and more settled as the days pass. I am getting used to the children on the streets or the young people saying ‘bon jour yovo’ as I pass, which is basically ‘hello white person’. I just crack up as they don’t mean it to be rude but to point out what they see. Most people speak to me on the street and the kids all look and waive as some don’t know French yet. I really live in Africa and I like it. I mean it isn’t always comfortable but I know that this is overall a life experience I won’t forget. I will write more about the boy with the broke leg who lives next the compound I live in, he is so adorable.

Oh, one sad thing that happened today was the discovery that our rooftop free Wi-Fi has been locked and so now we need to go to the Secondary School to use the internet. Se la vi.