On Tuesday I went with my roommate and some French teachers to the pizza place to each the FLATEST pizza ever seen with human eyes and to watch a French chick-flick on a DVD projector…I don’t think the FBI would approve but this is all we have for a movie theater here so please don’t report this.
Oh but I first must mention the motorcycle (from now on known as moto or machine) ride to the place was one that I will never forget, ok may be they are all like this right now but I’m doing a lot of praying as I ride to say the least. My roommate negotiated the price in French and we got the 2 motos to take us. Well my moto driver had a ghetto machine and as we went up the small small hill I could see my roommate on her moto zooming ahead as I drifted to an almost stop. Then to top it off, when we got to the top to the hill the guy was clearly lost and didn’t know where to take me. He darted in and out of traffic, drove on the opposite lane (mind you it’s dark and there really aren’t street lights here). He turned around like Evil Coeval himself, and then ground to a halt in the street to ask where this place was. Then we zoomed off. He then took another wrong turn and pretty much repeated this cycle again. But he got me there eventually. My roommate text me and called me and was worried but very happy to see me when I did get to the place. I feel like I should have been more concerned but I just remember thinking that he gets paid the same amount if he gets lost or not so I’ll get there eventually.
The movie was ok. I couldn’t really see the subtitles but the point of going was to listen to French since I speak English all day I don’t really get much French immersion and I desperately needed a little more.
Believe it or not I took another moto later on in the week, by myself, and he also got lost and expected me to communicate the directions…yeah, that was funny. But I got there after stopped to ask a few people where I was trying to go. All was well. I got home with no difficulty. I suppose that it’s just living and learning.
18 September, 2009
16 September, 2009
Moving
This morning I moved to the house down the street. My friend has been living here for the past 2 weeks or so and I visit almost daily and so this is logical and I’m so happy to live in a house where I will have a kitchen, but don’t think modern here. It’s like camping but it’s a small room with a propane stove (no oven), a double sink, and a small refrigerator. Then there is a stall-like room that is the shower and small stall-like room with a toilet that is jimmy-rigged together, but it works and that’s what counts I guess.
My room is a nice size, bigger than at the compound and I even get a double bed and the mattress is VERY firm to say the least. I guess it’s either super soft and squishy foam or the firm version. I’m happy to have the firm so this is good. I also have a desk and two shelves. Our small coffee table that doubles as a dining room table with the four chairs can easily transported outside under our grass roofed awning to enjoy the ocean breeze over the walls of our yard. Oh and we have a coconut tree in our yard too. I just need to figure how to get the 10 or so cocoanuts out of the tree now.
My friend and I cleaned the house and I unpacked today. We had the chauffer and guardian in for coffee when they dropped me off this morning and that was fun. I realized that I’m picking up on certain key words and so I can kinda sorta follow a basic conversation. That was a nice and exciting moment this morning too. Then the guardian made sure that the school’s carpenter guy came over later and helped me to hang my mosquito net here. I was very grateful as the way my ceiling is constructed it wasn’t so easy.
Many of the Togolese workers at the school were sad that I was moving and told me on and off during the week how they were sad I was moving. It kinda felt like everyone was saying good-bye like I was moving back to the U.S. I love that I have a community here already!
I don’t need to go and get any pets here as I have much wildlife that lives here (in the house too). We have Paula the lizard who lives outside in the yard, Lizzy the small lizard who runs around inside the house, the gecko that lives in the kitchen, Charlotte the HUGE spider that lived in my roommate’s room but decided that my widow is a better spot. So I won’t count or name the mosquitoes, ants, and various birds but they are also ever present. Life is good.
Please remember that anyone is welcome to visit and there is a third bedroom in the house too. It would be great to have a familiar face to show around town.
My room is a nice size, bigger than at the compound and I even get a double bed and the mattress is VERY firm to say the least. I guess it’s either super soft and squishy foam or the firm version. I’m happy to have the firm so this is good. I also have a desk and two shelves. Our small coffee table that doubles as a dining room table with the four chairs can easily transported outside under our grass roofed awning to enjoy the ocean breeze over the walls of our yard. Oh and we have a coconut tree in our yard too. I just need to figure how to get the 10 or so cocoanuts out of the tree now.
My friend and I cleaned the house and I unpacked today. We had the chauffer and guardian in for coffee when they dropped me off this morning and that was fun. I realized that I’m picking up on certain key words and so I can kinda sorta follow a basic conversation. That was a nice and exciting moment this morning too. Then the guardian made sure that the school’s carpenter guy came over later and helped me to hang my mosquito net here. I was very grateful as the way my ceiling is constructed it wasn’t so easy.
Many of the Togolese workers at the school were sad that I was moving and told me on and off during the week how they were sad I was moving. It kinda felt like everyone was saying good-bye like I was moving back to the U.S. I love that I have a community here already!
I don’t need to go and get any pets here as I have much wildlife that lives here (in the house too). We have Paula the lizard who lives outside in the yard, Lizzy the small lizard who runs around inside the house, the gecko that lives in the kitchen, Charlotte the HUGE spider that lived in my roommate’s room but decided that my widow is a better spot. So I won’t count or name the mosquitoes, ants, and various birds but they are also ever present. Life is good.
Please remember that anyone is welcome to visit and there is a third bedroom in the house too. It would be great to have a familiar face to show around town.
09 September, 2009
How I Got My Cell Phone
On Thursday morning I saw the man who helps us (Americans) get things. He is basically our “go to man” if you will. As I spoke with him I explained that I had money to buy a cell phone now and when he had time I would like to get one from him. He told me that I should meet him at the compound where I currently live at noon to give him the money and to get the phone.
At noon I made sure to get to the compound on the dot so I could get a phone. Well, he took my money and said that another man was coming at 12:30 to give me my phone. I went and visited with another teacher and then came back to the office at 12:20 and the office was closed up for siesta. So I sat and began talking to the guard or guardian as they call his position here. This is the man who lifts cement weights. I thought I heard him say that my phone was in the office and the office would open at 1. At 1:15 I asked again and he said it would be 2:30 when the office opened and yes, my phone was in the office. I laughed and chalked this up to my inability to understand French, but I had a good time talking with the guardian so it wasn’t a waste of time. I’m not really sure there is such a thing as wasting time here in Togo.
So I returned at 5pm after school to the office at the compound and the guardian said yes, my phone was in the office. I went into the office and asked the secretariate if she had seen my phone. She told me that she gave it to another American who lives in the compound too. So I went up to the third floor to check it out. Nope, he told me that he didn’t have it but he thought that the lady who cleans and cooks for the kids where we stay might have it. So when she returned I asked her (with his help) and I got my phone!
They explained that the charger was plugged into the phone and I would need to charge the phone ALL night. So I did it. Yeah, the person who plugged the charger into the phone put it into the earphone jack instead of the charging plug. So it clearly didn’t charge. I plugged it in to charge correctly and it seemed to be charging all day on Friday. The “go to man” saw me and asked about the phone and explained that if it didn’t work a man would come and replace it right then. He’s so nice and I really appreciated him. It seems that there are so many people that see me as a white person that they could take advantage of financially and especially since I can’t speak French I’m a walking sucker.
Then of course I had to add to this excitement, it’s the Nina way don’t you know. I got excited about the phone and start giving people my number, but I wrote down the wrong number. After figuring this out I had to apologize and correct this error over the course of several days. It’s so funny and so far everyone has been forgiving and nice.
I continue to learn that things have a different rhythm here in Togo and it’s beautiful but stretches me at the same time to leave my American thought pattern aside. I know that after living here I will never be to same.
At noon I made sure to get to the compound on the dot so I could get a phone. Well, he took my money and said that another man was coming at 12:30 to give me my phone. I went and visited with another teacher and then came back to the office at 12:20 and the office was closed up for siesta. So I sat and began talking to the guard or guardian as they call his position here. This is the man who lifts cement weights. I thought I heard him say that my phone was in the office and the office would open at 1. At 1:15 I asked again and he said it would be 2:30 when the office opened and yes, my phone was in the office. I laughed and chalked this up to my inability to understand French, but I had a good time talking with the guardian so it wasn’t a waste of time. I’m not really sure there is such a thing as wasting time here in Togo.
So I returned at 5pm after school to the office at the compound and the guardian said yes, my phone was in the office. I went into the office and asked the secretariate if she had seen my phone. She told me that she gave it to another American who lives in the compound too. So I went up to the third floor to check it out. Nope, he told me that he didn’t have it but he thought that the lady who cleans and cooks for the kids where we stay might have it. So when she returned I asked her (with his help) and I got my phone!
They explained that the charger was plugged into the phone and I would need to charge the phone ALL night. So I did it. Yeah, the person who plugged the charger into the phone put it into the earphone jack instead of the charging plug. So it clearly didn’t charge. I plugged it in to charge correctly and it seemed to be charging all day on Friday. The “go to man” saw me and asked about the phone and explained that if it didn’t work a man would come and replace it right then. He’s so nice and I really appreciated him. It seems that there are so many people that see me as a white person that they could take advantage of financially and especially since I can’t speak French I’m a walking sucker.
Then of course I had to add to this excitement, it’s the Nina way don’t you know. I got excited about the phone and start giving people my number, but I wrote down the wrong number. After figuring this out I had to apologize and correct this error over the course of several days. It’s so funny and so far everyone has been forgiving and nice.
I continue to learn that things have a different rhythm here in Togo and it’s beautiful but stretches me at the same time to leave my American thought pattern aside. I know that after living here I will never be to same.
02 September, 2009
First Day of School
Today was like breathing clean fresh air! It was the first day of school and I was at peace and in love with teaching and kids just like so many years ago when I started. The classroom is where I belong and what I plan on doing forever!
I had 5 students and we went through our day with joy and ease. They are all 5 years old and on many levels (some should be in 1st grade so we will see how that goes). We designed Science Journals, read a story, wrote some words, had snack & recess, did some math with shapes. I can honestly say that I was sad when the end of the day smacked me in the face. I am looking forward to tomorrow.
It seems that I can access the internet at the secondary school's computer lab on Wednesdays and Fridays. I hope to do so. I will be here between 3 and 5pm my time (west coast of Africa that is) so if you are online and want to chat via gmail or Skype that would be fun and nice to hear from friends. Please if you have comments or questions just post them here on the blog or e-mail me. I know that there must be things that you are wondering about life here and I'd love to share.
There is talk of moving me out of the compound and into a house with my Belgium friend, so next week I might move down the street. It would be nice but I guess the plumbing in the kitchen, shower, and the toilet are broken at the moment and I'd like to stay where I am until it's fixed, but we will see. I know that a bed was purchased but not yet assembled for me. Oh and by bed I would like you to imagine a very rudimentary twin bed with a 3 or 4 inch piece of foam for the mattress. This is pretty much what I sleep on now but I heard that it might be a 5 or 6 inch piece of foam at the house. The upgrade would be nice and welcomed. lol!
I had 5 students and we went through our day with joy and ease. They are all 5 years old and on many levels (some should be in 1st grade so we will see how that goes). We designed Science Journals, read a story, wrote some words, had snack & recess, did some math with shapes. I can honestly say that I was sad when the end of the day smacked me in the face. I am looking forward to tomorrow.
It seems that I can access the internet at the secondary school's computer lab on Wednesdays and Fridays. I hope to do so. I will be here between 3 and 5pm my time (west coast of Africa that is) so if you are online and want to chat via gmail or Skype that would be fun and nice to hear from friends. Please if you have comments or questions just post them here on the blog or e-mail me. I know that there must be things that you are wondering about life here and I'd love to share.
There is talk of moving me out of the compound and into a house with my Belgium friend, so next week I might move down the street. It would be nice but I guess the plumbing in the kitchen, shower, and the toilet are broken at the moment and I'd like to stay where I am until it's fixed, but we will see. I know that a bed was purchased but not yet assembled for me. Oh and by bed I would like you to imagine a very rudimentary twin bed with a 3 or 4 inch piece of foam for the mattress. This is pretty much what I sleep on now but I heard that it might be a 5 or 6 inch piece of foam at the house. The upgrade would be nice and welcomed. lol!
Aug 30th
I started work today in my classroom. It was quite a task. Basically, everything was thrown into plastic bags and into this random armoire cabinet thingie in my room. So I began cleaning it out. At first the girl helping me was apprehensive and felt that it wasn’t ok to throw crafts away even if the construction paper was faded and there were dirt spots on it. She flat out told me “We never clean out that cabinet, we just put things in it.” I threw 2 trash bags of old stuff in the trash and it was good. Heaven help us if I had to keep it all year! Throughout the course of the morning I found hairy spiders, a beetle, a gecko, and 2 HUGE roaches (like I used to find in my classroom in L.A.) in various spots arounf my room. I’m glad that the lizards that run around outside stayed outside!
Oh and I should mention that there are 2 bunnies that live in the playground area at my school! I wish Fred, my bunny, were here too. So today I brought each bunny a carrot and fed them. I have already set up a container in my kitchen to keep vegetable scraps for them. I will keep you posted on what I name them.
After everyone had left for siesta I continued to work and sort and throw old things away and then hang up boarders for my word walls and organized the tables and chairs. My Belgium friend stopped by and asked if I wanted to go to the library with her. I said yes. We worked a bit more and then I grabbed a quick lunch at the compound and met her. We decided to take a moto. Yes my friends I took my first African motorcycle ride today. After we flagged down 2 motos (which was funny because they are always empty passing you by when you are walking but now that we wanted one there wasn’t an empty moto in sight!) she haggled for the price and then we were off. Now you hang onto the rack that is behind you while seated on the moto and your feet rest on these make-shift peddles, that is when you’re feet aren’t bouncing all over because of the bumps. I think that my moto guy hit almost all the potholes just for fun. I tried not to laugh and smile as I already stuck out being the second white lady on a moto flying through Lome behind my friend on the moto in front of me. I’m sure this was a funny sight!
After the library, which was really a bookstore, we walked to the bank but had to ask directions a few times. Then we had to go to a different bank which required asking more directions. At one such encounter she was talking to this security man about which way and how far (as my French is super horrible and almost non existent) and another security man walks up to her and apparently says “It’s not far don’t worry, but I want to marry her” and he points at me. I smile obliviously. He repeats it and then she translates. I then point to the wedding ring I’m wearing for such occasions. This man is undeterred, so we walk away and laugh about these crazy men thinking we would say yes.
We eventually walked back to the compound and then to the secondary school campus to see if we can get online. No such luck. But we were in the right place at the right time and the principal took our passports to get our work visas. This is good as my visa expires in 3 days.
This evening I did venture to experience a cyber café after dinner. These were computers that are regularly discarded in America, you know the huge monitors that are discolored orange plastic. So I get on and it’s slow…slower than the Wi-Fi we used to get on the roof. Then I realize the letters on the keys are painted with whiteout but they are also all mixed up! Oh for the love of Pete I couldn’t find the period key to save my life. I finally asked and felt like it was my first computer class ever! I struggled with other punctuation and never did find the question mark. The man did come over and help me a few more times but as helpful as this was it attracts the wrong kind of attention so the girl next to me (who was just hanging out) starred quite a bit.
I got an e-mail from one of my kids in L.A. I almost cried for the first time. It made me miss all 7 of my kids there, but it also made me feel loved and remembered and it touched me deep in my heart. I can see that this year will have some very lonely moments and its small things like e-mails that will make me remember good times and that I’m not forgotten.
So I had another fun day in Lome! I hope as you reflect on your day you can see the joy and silliness that life has brought for you to enjoy too.
Oh and I should mention that there are 2 bunnies that live in the playground area at my school! I wish Fred, my bunny, were here too. So today I brought each bunny a carrot and fed them. I have already set up a container in my kitchen to keep vegetable scraps for them. I will keep you posted on what I name them.
After everyone had left for siesta I continued to work and sort and throw old things away and then hang up boarders for my word walls and organized the tables and chairs. My Belgium friend stopped by and asked if I wanted to go to the library with her. I said yes. We worked a bit more and then I grabbed a quick lunch at the compound and met her. We decided to take a moto. Yes my friends I took my first African motorcycle ride today. After we flagged down 2 motos (which was funny because they are always empty passing you by when you are walking but now that we wanted one there wasn’t an empty moto in sight!) she haggled for the price and then we were off. Now you hang onto the rack that is behind you while seated on the moto and your feet rest on these make-shift peddles, that is when you’re feet aren’t bouncing all over because of the bumps. I think that my moto guy hit almost all the potholes just for fun. I tried not to laugh and smile as I already stuck out being the second white lady on a moto flying through Lome behind my friend on the moto in front of me. I’m sure this was a funny sight!
After the library, which was really a bookstore, we walked to the bank but had to ask directions a few times. Then we had to go to a different bank which required asking more directions. At one such encounter she was talking to this security man about which way and how far (as my French is super horrible and almost non existent) and another security man walks up to her and apparently says “It’s not far don’t worry, but I want to marry her” and he points at me. I smile obliviously. He repeats it and then she translates. I then point to the wedding ring I’m wearing for such occasions. This man is undeterred, so we walk away and laugh about these crazy men thinking we would say yes.
We eventually walked back to the compound and then to the secondary school campus to see if we can get online. No such luck. But we were in the right place at the right time and the principal took our passports to get our work visas. This is good as my visa expires in 3 days.
This evening I did venture to experience a cyber café after dinner. These were computers that are regularly discarded in America, you know the huge monitors that are discolored orange plastic. So I get on and it’s slow…slower than the Wi-Fi we used to get on the roof. Then I realize the letters on the keys are painted with whiteout but they are also all mixed up! Oh for the love of Pete I couldn’t find the period key to save my life. I finally asked and felt like it was my first computer class ever! I struggled with other punctuation and never did find the question mark. The man did come over and help me a few more times but as helpful as this was it attracts the wrong kind of attention so the girl next to me (who was just hanging out) starred quite a bit.
I got an e-mail from one of my kids in L.A. I almost cried for the first time. It made me miss all 7 of my kids there, but it also made me feel loved and remembered and it touched me deep in my heart. I can see that this year will have some very lonely moments and its small things like e-mails that will make me remember good times and that I’m not forgotten.
So I had another fun day in Lome! I hope as you reflect on your day you can see the joy and silliness that life has brought for you to enjoy too.
August 30th
The market was big; however, I was with other people and I didn’t get to explore all of it. I know that next time I will see more and more as The Grand Marche is huge. We were mostly in the fruit and vegetable area but I did see tubs of dead chickens balanced on the heads of men and flopping with each stride the man took. I saw the empty bottles from vaccinations being sold, and I smelled the sea air mixed with people and waste of all kinds. I would have liked to take more pictures but I feel it would only increase my chances of being mugged at the market so I will collect pictures little by little.
The girls I was at the market with, and I walked almost an hour back to the school compound. I thought it was half this distance but trekking in the periodic rain, carrying heavy bundles from the market was a bonding experience. I guess my new friends are women not girls as one is an older lady who has been living in northern Togo for over 9 years and she is very sweet. We share a common area, kitchen, and restroom in the dorm on the 3rd floor of the Primary School compound campus. There are 3 campuses in all, so I teach at campus about 4 blocks away. The other woman is a little younger than I am and is from Belgium. She speaks French and teaches at the Secondary Campus up the street the other way. She speaks more English than I speak French so we communicate in English mostly, but she is helping me learn some things in French. She also has a house that is in between the compound where I live and the school I teach at so it is easy to walk down the street to see her.
Yesterday she had several of us over for dinner and it was so nice. Then some people went home and she and I and 2 other people went to a Jazz Club here in Lome. I was impressed until the band played the ‘Call Me Al’ song by Paul Simon and the singer didn’t know hardly any words, but the music was good. They played American, French, and African songs while people listened and danced. I had a nice time and even observed a group of the white men who brought African women out as dates/escorts/prostitutes…there is nothing new under the sun.
Today my Belgium friend and I went for a walk along the beach. I am an eight minute walk to the waves lapping my toes. I never would have thought that I could live closer to the beach than I was in L.A. but I am right now and it’s AWESOME! The beach was nice but you could tell how powerful the undertow was so we just walked and watched and chatted some. When we sat for a moment 2 Togolese guys came and sat on each side of us and were hitting on us. This is common as they don’t see us as anything but a visa and way out of Togo. So the guy who was talking to me realized that I don’t speak French so he had some English so we chatted a bit, but he was confused why my friend spoke French and I didn’t and wanted to know how we communicated and I told him in English some. He wanted to know how long I was planning to stay in Togo and per my friend’s idea and advise the other night you tell these men years or that you are moving here and they lose interest rather quickly. So I told him that I was going to teach in Togo for many many years. The look on his face was classic and he truly did lose interest. It was so funny and my friend and I laughed at this later.
Life is good and I am getting more and more settled as the days pass. I am getting used to the children on the streets or the young people saying ‘bon jour yovo’ as I pass, which is basically ‘hello white person’. I just crack up as they don’t mean it to be rude but to point out what they see. Most people speak to me on the street and the kids all look and waive as some don’t know French yet. I really live in Africa and I like it. I mean it isn’t always comfortable but I know that this is overall a life experience I won’t forget. I will write more about the boy with the broke leg who lives next the compound I live in, he is so adorable.
Oh, one sad thing that happened today was the discovery that our rooftop free Wi-Fi has been locked and so now we need to go to the Secondary School to use the internet. Se la vi.
The girls I was at the market with, and I walked almost an hour back to the school compound. I thought it was half this distance but trekking in the periodic rain, carrying heavy bundles from the market was a bonding experience. I guess my new friends are women not girls as one is an older lady who has been living in northern Togo for over 9 years and she is very sweet. We share a common area, kitchen, and restroom in the dorm on the 3rd floor of the Primary School compound campus. There are 3 campuses in all, so I teach at campus about 4 blocks away. The other woman is a little younger than I am and is from Belgium. She speaks French and teaches at the Secondary Campus up the street the other way. She speaks more English than I speak French so we communicate in English mostly, but she is helping me learn some things in French. She also has a house that is in between the compound where I live and the school I teach at so it is easy to walk down the street to see her.
Yesterday she had several of us over for dinner and it was so nice. Then some people went home and she and I and 2 other people went to a Jazz Club here in Lome. I was impressed until the band played the ‘Call Me Al’ song by Paul Simon and the singer didn’t know hardly any words, but the music was good. They played American, French, and African songs while people listened and danced. I had a nice time and even observed a group of the white men who brought African women out as dates/escorts/prostitutes…there is nothing new under the sun.
Today my Belgium friend and I went for a walk along the beach. I am an eight minute walk to the waves lapping my toes. I never would have thought that I could live closer to the beach than I was in L.A. but I am right now and it’s AWESOME! The beach was nice but you could tell how powerful the undertow was so we just walked and watched and chatted some. When we sat for a moment 2 Togolese guys came and sat on each side of us and were hitting on us. This is common as they don’t see us as anything but a visa and way out of Togo. So the guy who was talking to me realized that I don’t speak French so he had some English so we chatted a bit, but he was confused why my friend spoke French and I didn’t and wanted to know how we communicated and I told him in English some. He wanted to know how long I was planning to stay in Togo and per my friend’s idea and advise the other night you tell these men years or that you are moving here and they lose interest rather quickly. So I told him that I was going to teach in Togo for many many years. The look on his face was classic and he truly did lose interest. It was so funny and my friend and I laughed at this later.
Life is good and I am getting more and more settled as the days pass. I am getting used to the children on the streets or the young people saying ‘bon jour yovo’ as I pass, which is basically ‘hello white person’. I just crack up as they don’t mean it to be rude but to point out what they see. Most people speak to me on the street and the kids all look and waive as some don’t know French yet. I really live in Africa and I like it. I mean it isn’t always comfortable but I know that this is overall a life experience I won’t forget. I will write more about the boy with the broke leg who lives next the compound I live in, he is so adorable.
Oh, one sad thing that happened today was the discovery that our rooftop free Wi-Fi has been locked and so now we need to go to the Secondary School to use the internet. Se la vi.
28 August, 2009
August 28, 2009
Today I arrived in Lome, but it is the journey here that has made this arrival so sweet. Let me begin yesterday and work forward.
In Kansas City there was some difficulty with charging me for all the extra weight in my FOUR suitcases and while dealing with that they began calling my name over the P.A. announcing it was the final boarding call, I had some how been put on standby for the flight that left an hour ahead of my scheduled flight. This only caused all the blood in my face to drain and my stomach lurch, but this was all remedied when the man behind the counter explained things to me and then basically charged me quickly, wished me luck, and shooed me away.
In Chicago I made instant friends with Isaac, a 7 year old Ghanan boy traveling with his mother. We quickly discovered we were sharing the next 2 flights. During the second flight I read and played with Isaac and talked some with his mom too. I guess it was a good thing that I carried some of the children’s books in my carry-on! Issac even came to sit with me since the flight was not very full. Everyone began to think he was mine. Isaac’s mom was happy to have some time to sleep too.
In Accra, Isaac’s mom and I collected our bags (thank goodness they all arrived!) and waited for each other to go through Immigration. She also made sure that I had a taxi and her number too. She asked me to call her when I get a phone.
My taxi driver took me to check the bus times for the next day, to change money, and to find my guesthouse. I have to admit that as we drove away from the airport and into the city of Accra I thought for a moment that I really must be crazy because I did just move to Africa, for real! But then a few more blocks passed and I realized that this was good and I was at peace again. When we arrived at the guesthouse the people said that it was full even though there seemed to be many keys that were in the slots. I suspect they were not interested in renting me a room. The taxi driver, however, told me not to worry and he would take me to another hotel. It turned out well, with the exception of the last minute fumigation of my room while I checked in. Thank goodness for fans!
They prepared vegetables and fish for me and it was a bit of an a-ha moment when the fish was served with the head, eyeballs, and tale still attached to the cooked fish, but it was good. I refrained from eating the eyeballs, head, and tale for anyone who was wondering.
It was a very long night as I continued to wake up wondering what time it was. I even went down to the desk to check the time a few times. Then it was finally time to leave for the morning bus. The taxi driver that I got seemed to know less about traveling around Accra than I did as he took me to the wrong bus station even when I told him it was not the correct place, but we eventually got there. As I paid for my bus ticket a man told me to “hurry, hurry!” and I began to rush like in America; however no one else seemed to hurry any so I slowed down a bit as to not stick out so much. The lady I bought my ticket from noted the dirt on my shirt and I realized the taxi driver’s seatbelt was so dirty that it rubbed off on me. Now I was not only the only white woman as far as the eye could see but the dirty white woman among the cleanest dressed people. Now not everyone smelled great but they looked clean, for sure. I opted to change my outer shirt on the bus and just get these crazy heavy bags loaded. In the end I paid some boy to throw them into the back of the bus, the taxi driver ripped me off and we both knew it but I didn’t have all day to haggle over a small amount, so I got on the bus and took it in stride.
Now the bus I got on was scheduled to leave over an hour earlier, so I lucked out catching that bus. This 3 hour plus bus ride was through city, country, and then along the ocean. I saw many men peeing along the road, a placed called Ghollywood at the side of the road, markets with vibrant colors that in contrast to all the dust coated tin roofs seemed surreal. I saw what seemed like untouched land, and flooded towns near the ocean. The man next to me explained that those places flood each year and the people leave and then move back when the waters subside. I saw women carrying eggs, mash, fruit, kabobs, and peanuts on their heads rushing the bus as we stopped. People piled off the bus the relieve themselves and purchase goods. The bus stalled, ground gears, and backfired all along the trip, it was great! I loved it.
At the boarder the bus pulled into a compound and since my bags were piled in the back of the bus with 1,000 rolls of toilet paper, literally!!! The bus driver would not open the back doors of the bus, instead insisted that my bags should be unloaded out of the front door of the bus. I felt that was foolish. The next thing I knew these women congregated and began to unload all T.P. out the back of the bus, so sure enough when a man yelled as them to stop they turn and unload all my bags. I caught on quickly that they were just there to make a buck and expected to be paid for work even though they were not hired. When they saw all my of my bags and me they point and laugh and it was horrible. Then they want me to pay them to carry my bags. I felt their nerve to mock me and then want my money was too much, even though it’s just Africa I refused. I then strapped my bags together and pulled them. A second crowd of women gathered and wanted to help. This time a man who spoke English asked me why I just didn’t hire someone to carry the bags. In the end those women carried my bags and this man supervised the whole crossing, he said because he didn’t want anything except me to be safe. I am a sucker, but he at least had a sense of humor and joked and told people I was his wife. The 100 yards to the boarder was a blur of officials, people crossing, huge trucks, and then under all the noise I knew the ocean waves were crashing too. I remember thinking that I was missing all the beauty around me, but I had to keep my eyes and senses alter for now. It was chaos with added stress of people ordering me around and demanding money. My friend pointed the way and broke it down to me when my bags were searched because I didn’t pay enough of a bribe. He pointed out all the checkpoints I had to go through (Ghana exit stamp, Ghana customs bribe, Togo Immigration, Togo customs, and the crossing bribe too). Please don’t forget paying the women who carried my bags, and both men I had to pay to use their phones to call my principal.
I’d never met my principal before but I knew when I saw the Iranian man approaching that I had pictured him wrong in my head. We got my bags loaded and my so called good willed friend asked my principal for a bribe. My western sense of right and wrong was angry as I watched this from inside the car. It just comes with the territory and no one thinks that way here.
My principal took me to the school to drop off my bags, later I would find out I would live at the Primary School compound and work at the Kindergarten Compound down the street. I was taken directly to his house where his mom had made lunch and his mom and dad and he and I ate lunch and talked. Their family story is so interesting but they settled here in Lome almost 30 years ago to serve the community. I enjoyed meeting them and then returned to the compound where I live and unpacked. Right now all of our meals are prepared by a Togolese woman who works here and cleans and whatnot. It’s nice but I feel bad. Tomorrow my kitchen stuff should arrive and I can start shopping and cooking on my own or with my roommate. I meant to take a walk too but it gets dark at 6:20pm as we are so close to the equator. There is almost exactly 12 hours of daylight and dark. I did manage to find free wi-fi on the roof of the compound and sent the e-mail to everyone that I had arrived. I think that it’s what I expected in many ways but better in others. I’m glad I am here.
So my journey here is complete and I begin my teaching journey now. Pictures will be loaded soon.
In Kansas City there was some difficulty with charging me for all the extra weight in my FOUR suitcases and while dealing with that they began calling my name over the P.A. announcing it was the final boarding call, I had some how been put on standby for the flight that left an hour ahead of my scheduled flight. This only caused all the blood in my face to drain and my stomach lurch, but this was all remedied when the man behind the counter explained things to me and then basically charged me quickly, wished me luck, and shooed me away.
In Chicago I made instant friends with Isaac, a 7 year old Ghanan boy traveling with his mother. We quickly discovered we were sharing the next 2 flights. During the second flight I read and played with Isaac and talked some with his mom too. I guess it was a good thing that I carried some of the children’s books in my carry-on! Issac even came to sit with me since the flight was not very full. Everyone began to think he was mine. Isaac’s mom was happy to have some time to sleep too.
In Accra, Isaac’s mom and I collected our bags (thank goodness they all arrived!) and waited for each other to go through Immigration. She also made sure that I had a taxi and her number too. She asked me to call her when I get a phone.
My taxi driver took me to check the bus times for the next day, to change money, and to find my guesthouse. I have to admit that as we drove away from the airport and into the city of Accra I thought for a moment that I really must be crazy because I did just move to Africa, for real! But then a few more blocks passed and I realized that this was good and I was at peace again. When we arrived at the guesthouse the people said that it was full even though there seemed to be many keys that were in the slots. I suspect they were not interested in renting me a room. The taxi driver, however, told me not to worry and he would take me to another hotel. It turned out well, with the exception of the last minute fumigation of my room while I checked in. Thank goodness for fans!
They prepared vegetables and fish for me and it was a bit of an a-ha moment when the fish was served with the head, eyeballs, and tale still attached to the cooked fish, but it was good. I refrained from eating the eyeballs, head, and tale for anyone who was wondering.
It was a very long night as I continued to wake up wondering what time it was. I even went down to the desk to check the time a few times. Then it was finally time to leave for the morning bus. The taxi driver that I got seemed to know less about traveling around Accra than I did as he took me to the wrong bus station even when I told him it was not the correct place, but we eventually got there. As I paid for my bus ticket a man told me to “hurry, hurry!” and I began to rush like in America; however no one else seemed to hurry any so I slowed down a bit as to not stick out so much. The lady I bought my ticket from noted the dirt on my shirt and I realized the taxi driver’s seatbelt was so dirty that it rubbed off on me. Now I was not only the only white woman as far as the eye could see but the dirty white woman among the cleanest dressed people. Now not everyone smelled great but they looked clean, for sure. I opted to change my outer shirt on the bus and just get these crazy heavy bags loaded. In the end I paid some boy to throw them into the back of the bus, the taxi driver ripped me off and we both knew it but I didn’t have all day to haggle over a small amount, so I got on the bus and took it in stride.
Now the bus I got on was scheduled to leave over an hour earlier, so I lucked out catching that bus. This 3 hour plus bus ride was through city, country, and then along the ocean. I saw many men peeing along the road, a placed called Ghollywood at the side of the road, markets with vibrant colors that in contrast to all the dust coated tin roofs seemed surreal. I saw what seemed like untouched land, and flooded towns near the ocean. The man next to me explained that those places flood each year and the people leave and then move back when the waters subside. I saw women carrying eggs, mash, fruit, kabobs, and peanuts on their heads rushing the bus as we stopped. People piled off the bus the relieve themselves and purchase goods. The bus stalled, ground gears, and backfired all along the trip, it was great! I loved it.
At the boarder the bus pulled into a compound and since my bags were piled in the back of the bus with 1,000 rolls of toilet paper, literally!!! The bus driver would not open the back doors of the bus, instead insisted that my bags should be unloaded out of the front door of the bus. I felt that was foolish. The next thing I knew these women congregated and began to unload all T.P. out the back of the bus, so sure enough when a man yelled as them to stop they turn and unload all my bags. I caught on quickly that they were just there to make a buck and expected to be paid for work even though they were not hired. When they saw all my of my bags and me they point and laugh and it was horrible. Then they want me to pay them to carry my bags. I felt their nerve to mock me and then want my money was too much, even though it’s just Africa I refused. I then strapped my bags together and pulled them. A second crowd of women gathered and wanted to help. This time a man who spoke English asked me why I just didn’t hire someone to carry the bags. In the end those women carried my bags and this man supervised the whole crossing, he said because he didn’t want anything except me to be safe. I am a sucker, but he at least had a sense of humor and joked and told people I was his wife. The 100 yards to the boarder was a blur of officials, people crossing, huge trucks, and then under all the noise I knew the ocean waves were crashing too. I remember thinking that I was missing all the beauty around me, but I had to keep my eyes and senses alter for now. It was chaos with added stress of people ordering me around and demanding money. My friend pointed the way and broke it down to me when my bags were searched because I didn’t pay enough of a bribe. He pointed out all the checkpoints I had to go through (Ghana exit stamp, Ghana customs bribe, Togo Immigration, Togo customs, and the crossing bribe too). Please don’t forget paying the women who carried my bags, and both men I had to pay to use their phones to call my principal.
I’d never met my principal before but I knew when I saw the Iranian man approaching that I had pictured him wrong in my head. We got my bags loaded and my so called good willed friend asked my principal for a bribe. My western sense of right and wrong was angry as I watched this from inside the car. It just comes with the territory and no one thinks that way here.
My principal took me to the school to drop off my bags, later I would find out I would live at the Primary School compound and work at the Kindergarten Compound down the street. I was taken directly to his house where his mom had made lunch and his mom and dad and he and I ate lunch and talked. Their family story is so interesting but they settled here in Lome almost 30 years ago to serve the community. I enjoyed meeting them and then returned to the compound where I live and unpacked. Right now all of our meals are prepared by a Togolese woman who works here and cleans and whatnot. It’s nice but I feel bad. Tomorrow my kitchen stuff should arrive and I can start shopping and cooking on my own or with my roommate. I meant to take a walk too but it gets dark at 6:20pm as we are so close to the equator. There is almost exactly 12 hours of daylight and dark. I did manage to find free wi-fi on the roof of the compound and sent the e-mail to everyone that I had arrived. I think that it’s what I expected in many ways but better in others. I’m glad I am here.
So my journey here is complete and I begin my teaching journey now. Pictures will be loaded soon.
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