Smuggling

As we returned from Accra, the second time, we were at the trotro station and all the drivers were trying to convince us that we should get in their trotro. I was looking for the trotro with the most passengers as they are just vans and when the van fills then the trotro leaves. We were looking at the drivers and the trotros when our driver from our last trip saw us and we felt that he was an overall safe driver and we had a nice journey last time so we got in his trotro and took our seats in the front with him like last time, but then we realized that we were two of three passengers. I knew it would be a long wait and it was so I began checking out the wares that people were carrying for sale on their heads. I even spotted some beer and joked that the beer would for sure make the wait more interesting. We opted for Sprite instead. We looked at all kinds of things that people wanted us to buy and I called a few friends in America, as it’s much easier to call in Ghana. Then after a few hours I had to pee so I asked the driver where I should go. He took my hand and led me down an alley, then ducked into a building and we twisted and turned down a few more dark passageways and then he greeted a woman and pointed for me to use a stall marked women. I gladly did and was thankful I carried my own TP as there was only old newspaper available in the stall, mind you this was upscale for Africa and I was grateful. Another half an hour later we pulled out destine for Lome. It was about 7:30pm by then and I was very leery that we would make it to Togo before the boarder closed. I wanted to know where we would sleep but the driver and my friend both said that I shouldn’t worry. I sat and easily did the math in my head and a four hour ride and the boarder closing at 10:00 just equaled bad news but I went with it.

The driver clearly wanted to make time so he maneuvered through Accra traffic (think LA rush hour only Africa style). We even veered off the road at one point and drove way over on the shoulder to bypass many many cars. After we made it out of the city I curled up and began sleeping. I know that both my friend and I were out cold when I heard it and then smelt it, a flat tire. I have only had two in 15 years of driving but you never forget it. He slowed down and pulled over and we all had to unload. I think every woman ran out to relieve themselves while the men just stood where they were and were not shy at all, another very Africa thing. The driver did an amazing job changing the tire and we were back on the road in about 10 minutes. I didn’t sleep so well after that in spite of being incredibly tired. The road was just too bumpy and the lady behind me wouldn’t let me lean my head back without pushing on me or pulling my hair.

When we were near the boarder the driver called someone and everyone began talking in Eway. My friend basically told me that the boarder was closed but the driver knew someone who would take us through so we would get home and I shouldn’t worry. Oh and I should mention it began raining fairly hard.

When we got out of the trotro we were led through some grass and down a passage between some houses. We all stopped under a tin roof that was the overhang of someone’s house. We then had to pay the two men so they could bribe the night boarder guards. No one mentioned that this was very dangerous and I was a HUGE liability because I was white. No one mentioned that I should hide my skin and stand behind other people. I was only told to stay close so I did but with no warnings I was basically oblivious. Then as they were telling me to duck through the hole in the fence, that someone had cut for such occasions, I was told to go and stand in a doorway out of sight. Another woman handed me a panya (large piece of cloth that women wrap themselves in). I put it on my head and hid under it but I still had my shines and ankles hanging out. If someone had told me I could have put my own panya on also and I would have blended a bit more. After everyone had passed under they all gathered around me and we walked toward the guards. I couldn’t see so well but I know that everyone all of a sudden wasn’t there, only my friend and the men we paid and I was in the beam of a flashlight being yelled at to stop and come to the group of boarder guards huddled under a tin roof shelter.
I reminded my friend to tell them that I was sick and we left this morning to go see the doctor and then when we were returning the trotro broke down. He told me that I should not talk but he explained in Eway. They asked to see my passport and we showed them and I pointed to my Ghana and Togo visas. I was completely legal, just crossing at an illegal time of day. I coughed and shivered and acted weak so they might let us go. Then they yelled at my friend and the leader basically said that my friend was to pass and leave me with the guards because white people have been causing problems overseas for other countries and he was holding me. After more discussion and my friend refusing to leave me he wanted money and wouldn’t accept the few Cedis (Ghana currency) that my friend had. I gave 1000 CEFA (Togo currency) and another guard said to the leader that he should just take it because I really did look sick. I got the feeling they started to think they didn’t want to hold me after all. We thanked them and walked fast most of the way home. The boarder is a 15 minute walk from my house. My friend laughed and told me I did a good job playing sick because the guards believed me.

I will never know how people who are smuggled into other countries feel but I know that this little adventure was only a drop in the bucket of what they must experience. This was more than I bargained for when I left to go to the doctor for sure. My friend and I have agreed that next time we will just stay the night as I would have gladly stayed in a hotel. Then again this is an experience I will never forget.